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Author Topic: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question  (Read 1249 times)

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Offline brookes745

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Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« on: April 22, 2018, 18:27:15 PM »
So I've got my motor fitted......


and this is the ESC


Question is, which way do the three wires attach? I've got red, yellow and black from the motor and three black from the ESC. The instructions don't mention anything about this so I'm assuming it doesn't matter. Thoughts?
Its only when machines go wrong that you realise how powerful they really are!!


Offline Saxon

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2018, 18:34:51 PM »

Connect all three wires in any order. Fire up the motor (no prop) and, if it turns the wrong way, just change two (any two) of the wires around.

John

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Offline brookes745

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2018, 19:32:35 PM »
Connect all three wires in any order. Fire up the motor (no prop) and, if it turns the wrong way, just change two (any two) of the wires around.

John

Thanks John, that's what I figured but didn't want to blow anything up.

Its only when machines go wrong that you realise how powerful they really are!!


Offline Gryshnak

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2018, 00:09:41 AM »
I would also add (if it's not too late already) that you're using an 80A ESC which is quite a beast, it should survive just about anything you throw at it.  But it's a good idea to have a meter attached while you do the first motor run, to make sure you don't exceed the motor's maximum limit.  Most brushless motors have an Amp limit either in the instructions, or on a website somewhere - say 50A max continuous, with a burst of 65A for 10 seconds.  Select a prop that will keep the Amps below that limit with a bit of a safety margin, even with a fully charged battery.  Brushless motors are wonderful things but they will burn out if you overload them, just like any other electrical device.

Both motor and ESC should be installed so they get a good flow of cooling air, too.  Heat will always be the enemy of electric flight.

Offline paulinfrance

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2018, 05:28:34 AM »
Quote,

 "Heat will always be the enemy of electric flight".


 And also steadfast internal combustion modellers ,,,   :''
Mode 2 THE only way to fly


Offline quorneng

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #5 on: April 23, 2018, 19:19:25 PM »
I would strongly endorse the ESC cooling requirement.
An ESC creates about as much heat as the brushless motor and to make matters worse it does not have the advantage of rotating parts to swirl the air about to dissipate the heat.
A positive airflow over all the ESC is important.

Offline brookes745

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2018, 20:58:38 PM »
Thanks for the feedback guys.

The model it is installed in is a Ripmax Wot 4 EP/GP which is specifically designed for electric set up and has an additional cooling hole on the underside of the fuselage plus an extra air intake in the cowl, so hopefully that will suffice.

All the components such as ESC, motor and battery are as recommended for the Wot on the Ripmax web site so I'm hoping not to have too many issues. The motor comes with a suggested range of props so I'll try those out with a meter fitted to monitor amps.

One other rookie question. Having checked the balance on the completed model, I will need to add extra nose weight and rather than using dead weight (lead) I plan to use a flight battery to replace the BEC feature on the ESC. Question is which wire do I remove, red, white or black? I'm guessing black and would cut up an extension lead rather than the ESC lead. Thoughts?

Cheers

Ian
Its only when machines go wrong that you realise how powerful they really are!!

Offline FrankS

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2018, 21:06:23 PM »
You need to remove the red lead, this is the positive, leaving the signal line and ground. Rather than chop up an extension lead, just ease the positive pin out of the plug and tape it back to the cable out of the way.

Offline itsme

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2018, 21:07:52 PM »
Thanks for the feedback guys.

The model it is installed in is a Ripmax Wot 4 EP/GP which is specifically designed for electric set up and has an additional cooling hole on the underside of the fuselage plus an extra air intake in the cowl, so hopefully that will suffice.

All the components such as ESC, motor and battery are as recommended for the Wot on the Ripmax web site so I'm hoping not to have too many issues. The motor comes with a suggested range of props so I'll try those out with a meter fitted to monitor amps.

One other rookie question. Having checked the balance on the completed model, I will need to add extra nose weight and rather than using dead weight (lead) I plan to use a flight battery to replace the BEC feature on the ESC. Question is which wire do I remove, red, white or black? I'm guessing black and would cut up an extension lead rather than the ESC lead. Thoughts?

Cheers

Ian
Bit complicated for no real reason. Just add some lead.

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk



Offline JimG

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #9 on: April 24, 2018, 08:14:57 AM »
Rather than lead try and fit a larger LiPo.

Jim
Jim Gill
Dundee Model Aircraft Club

Offline itsme

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #10 on: April 24, 2018, 08:32:21 AM »
Rather than lead try and fit a larger LiPo.

Jim
That would be preferable, but may need surgery to the battery bay.

Offline JimG

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #11 on: April 24, 2018, 17:36:34 PM »
Check out different makes of cells, the same capacity of battery can vary quite a lot in size, especially different C rated cells. You might be able to squeeze more capacity without surgery.

Jim
Jim Gill
Dundee Model Aircraft Club

Offline Gryshnak

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #12 on: April 28, 2018, 21:17:10 PM »
If you need to carry noseweight, there is nothing wrong with making it useful and installing a receiver battery.  Trouble is, LiPo cells generate a nominal 3.7 volts (slightly more when fully charged, slightly less when under load).  Most receivers are designed for Nicad or NiMH batteries of 4 cells (4.8V) or 5 cells (6.0V).  3.7V is at the lower end of the acceptable power range - that doesn't mean it won't work at that voltage, but it will work better on 4.8V.  If you have room, and you need the extra weight, and you don't mind charging one extra battery, a 4-cell or 5-cell NiMH pack will last all day.  It comes with a plug and on/off switch so you can easily swap it in or out, see if you notice any difference between that and the BEC circuitry. 

Offline Patmac

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Re: Rookie ESC/Motor connection question
« Reply #13 on: April 28, 2018, 22:06:19 PM »
A dedicated Rx battery together with it's switch are unnecessary liabilities.
Best to work on the KISS principle - use the BEC & add any lead needed to achieve the correct cg.
Pax vobiscum


 

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