Topic: ATS Mayneline Spitfire online build.

Oh come on, no one actually reads all that stuff you post, you know!

Dave

I didn't say a post - I said a conversation.

PDR

But if you do that, the model will fly in ever-decreasing spirals around the nearest source of light...

Dave S

That could actually be quite good if you have a deadstick...

I'm getting this awful feeling of deja vu - as if I've heard this in some recent conversation of something...



PDR

Really ??............... .....................

Really ??............... .....................

Yes, it's like it was only yesterday...

Love the pseudo fabric ailerons BTW - excellent stuff.

PDR

Yes, it's like it was only yesterday...

Love the pseudo fabric ailerons BTW - excellent stuff.

PDR

Yesterday ??...............dunno what ya talkin about Mr. ! 

&.................glad ya like umm..........

and I'm looking for an alternative to CA on some parts of the construction

this glue does take an evening to dry, but the Falcon grip ( aka PU glue in hardware stores ) goes off fairly quick and has the added benefit of foaming up to fill gaps. look back through to see where I've used it.

 kdc_94: this is the glue in the bottle, it's unused... to see where the glue i did use went go back to the wing joining with the bandage  :ww the reason i posted the image was for a previous question on what glue i used for the bandage.

Phil: good point but i can't find 45 degree bandages and i suspect they'd fall to bits before i got to apply it :ww. the glass cloth is a good idea tho I'd like to stick with thin stuff rather than the types you get supplied with kits, half the reason i do it this way is to avoid the horrid bulge.

i don't think the glue would stick to it well either and then you might as well cut a square of thin glass and epoxy it to the wing in a diamond for max strenght. then I'd be back to a finish that films don't like to stick to.

this is just quick, easy, not messy, looks good and has proven strong enough in the past.
170mph delta hitting the floor flat out and the joints fine, but I'll probably add a ply spar for extra safety, is a show plane after all.

looking at my 190 build pics i see i did use the supplied glass bandage, a shed load of filler then the wing was glassed hiding the bandage

boy is my face gonna be red if it ever claps hands :-[

.

 kdc_94: this is the glue in the bottle, it's unused... to see where the glue i did use went go back to the wing joining with the bandage  :ww the reason i posted the image was for a previous question on what glue i used for the bandage.

Oh just meant as a joke, you know the insect and the glue bottle..  That´s why I asked..
But thanks for clearing it up anyway 

ahhhhhhhhhh

well as it happens i wanted to move him so i didn't get belted on the back of the head again like when he flew in.

would he let go of the foam ceiling? would he heck!

Got the fillets rubbed down as much as i think i can get away with, looks better than the second hand one i got a few years ago so I'm happy.

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time to work on the front if the fairing, a glob of filler gives something to work with, note the tape on the wing so it won't stick.

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taken down with a dremmel and smooth off, roughness is filler just to hide the bits i took too much out of.
note the location now around the former, the wings LE was rubbed down a little afterwards to allow for film and paint

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side view..

ummmmm.... scale details

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knocked up the central radiator tonight from two laminations of 1/2" scrap balsa.

this little fella will be glued to the wing after covering and will also have a hole through it which will hide the front wing bolt.

I've cut parts for the two rear radiators, but might re-cut, my orange wood doesn't like bending cross grain.. good and strong for landing on tho.



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Looking good.. what you going to cover it with?
I've just started to tissue and poly-c the mustang..

heck, i mustn't be putting enough time into this if your ahead of me already :ww
i remember the days when i could knock out something like this in two weeks, ah.. the un-employed single life....

i'm going to cover with silver Easycote then spray on prymol, then my finish.

ah.. the un-employed single life....

Those were the days 

I'm on a tight schedule to get it ready and then my sas wildthing and maybe another attempt on the mosquito, for holiday in sept, so got to go quick. 

i'm hoping to have this done for the Hop Farm, that inculdes the engine being run in and reliable.

oo errr misses..

not got the compresser for spraying totaly sorted yet.

Cool. im back in time to make the sunday at the hop farm.
Can't wait to see it go 

rads finished, they've also been given a 1/64th ply top to stop anything digging them up on landing

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time to put in the aileron torque rods again, the Cactus way.
first mark out where you want them, the dot represents where the bolt would be so keep the arms away from there.
now cut a slot deep enough that the arm sits half way down.
be careful at this point as the TE now has little strenght

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now pop in the rods, as you can see I've got mine bent a bit further out than on the plan, more meat out here.

now put a drop of cyno each end and drop some more in the middle. now add two scraps of balsa.



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now back fill with epoxy.

had they not had plastic outers or they had been sloppy i wouldhave waxed the rods and filled with epoxy only, this makes for me the ultimate torque rod seat.

last mod for tonight, taking the tail in 3 cm adds the scale counter balances, insides are capped with ply to stop them breaking off.

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Interesting method for the torque rods, maybe I should try to finish my FW  :ww

i always put in torque rods last, spent too long trying to sand around the darn things in the past.

like i said my fave method is just to rub a candle over them, epoxy them in place and give it a knock.

i was tempted on this build to top hinge and that was the plan before the over eager sanding near the tips leaving me with no solid edge at the top for the hinges.
when top hinging you install the rods exactly the same way and use a snake to bury the torque rod in the wing, when you move the rod it slides in and out of the snake as the surface is hinged above it.

I'll probably use a snake anyway to avoid slop over time but looks like I'll have to go for the old center hinge :(

might have found a quick and easy way of adding scale ribs on the surfaces, stay tunned

nearing the end now by sorting out the surfaces.

for this i work out where my torque rods will be then used a sharpened tube to make a hole large enough for a snake inner thats a tight fit on the rods.
this is then glued in place about 3mm from the edge ( allows for the bend )

with all surfaces done i couldn't resist a tape together

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the bottom

heres a test piece i tried for the ribs, works quite well on this soft balsa.



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using a print out i work out roughly where the ribs will sit and mark them.
then using a scrap bit of thin ply with thin cyno on it's edge i put lines of cyno on the surface.

once dry a rub with a foam sanding block reduces the wood quicker than the cyno.

here on the harder rudder the effect isn't as great, which as I'm film covering is a good thing, but it'll still give the impression of ribs.

anyone heard of this meathod before???

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the tail works slightly better with this glue rib thing, pleased with this.

time to start working out where the gear goes. here i've cut the servo into the wing and epoxyed hard balsa servo rails in.

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i've installed the wing bolts from the other side and painted the ends, the dots are then where to make my holes with sharpened tubes.

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a flush balsa infill at the front helps strenghten it and also stops the wing crushing when it's bolted up.

i've also put a hole through the intake scoop.

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time to work out wheres the gears going, as since the start I've wanted to hide my switch and charge gear.

the down side with this hatch is it'll be almost impossible to play with the switch later but i might yet have an access hatch in the bottom which will double up as the battery hatch, with 37's up front the battery's tend to be back here.

the round disc's are magnets to keep the hatch shut, i spent a while last night working out spring, hidden hinges etc but in the end i went for the simple meathod.



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Biggles has arrived !

this is a ww2 Uk 1/10th bust from Petes Pilots http://petespilots.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/
I've got a full pilot in the Fw190 thats a jet body with a ww2 head, he was 1:12th but for the spit i wanted someone filling the cockpit just like the rear ones, no elbow room in ere.

Pete also does a CD full of his pilots just pop him a mail and £2.50, he says he has over 4000 combinations!

perfect fit.



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biggles reporting for duty.


heres my FW190 pilot, i painted this guy

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Cactus man,

Is that Biggles chap, wearing LIPSTICK........I mean........what!!!.......we don't have that sort of thing you know.......

dunno ask Pete, tho i think it's just a rosy complexion from all the oxygen and lack of pressure in the cockpit.. he does seem to be a million miles away in the last pic.

the cockpits been prymoled and is now ready for some silver paint on the inside, this will be a base coat protected from the rough and tumble the outside will suffer, same theory as the silver film covering first.

also a closer look at one of my rads, ali mesh has been used to just give it something more than a right through look.

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I've decided to now put all the bits together and see where the CofG is so i know where the battery will be.

while looking at the engine i noticed the muffler was quite a lump, heres the figures.

Engine 279, muffler 107! thats pretty hefty for an already nose heavy model.

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so i think I'll use a standard muffler from any other 36-37 class engine, i know it's missing the pressure nipple, but it's still only going to be about 65g.

all together the CofG is 25mm forwards, not bad as it will get tail heavy with the pushrods, clevis's, horns and paint.
having the battery behind the wing gets it spot on.


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