Topic: Vailly Fw 190 a Build

Thanks for looking in Cliff. With regards as to which version I'm building, I'm sure someone out there will
know, especially fans of aircraft flown  by  pilots from ' The Dark Side'.
 All the best
                 Keith

Hi all,
        back again with a somewhat belated update. Due to the clsoe proximity of our club flying site to my home, I was forced to take advantage of this excellent weather we're having. So the 190 has beenon the back burner for a while.
Having said that I have found time to complete the inst. panel and the cockpit side panels.
 
   Some of the controls are missing, this is because all panels were a dry fit only.

   

   

  The panels were purchased from Propagteam.cz , and the quality of their kits are outstanding.The cockpit walls are lined with plumbers ali. tape cut-back with fine abrasive paper to accept the paint.
Another task undertaken was to fit the cowl. This was acheived by the same method as Phil Clarke used on the sist. fw190. Once in place, I cut out tha access panel on the port side to allow for fuelling.

     

 

 Next on the to do list, is painting of cockpit area, seat costruction and trying to find a 1/4 scale Luftwaffe pilot ; any ideas?
 Thats about all for now, so happy landings
                       
                                              Keith


   

looking really nice Keith!...getting jealous .....
love the gun release for the gun cover....
dave

Thanks for your input Dave, just got in after airbrushing the cockpit interior and rear deck.
At what point do you kit out the office, my thoughts are to leave it until airframe ready for glassing,as the windshield won't be installed until this stage.
 The Zero is looking good, do you intend to have it in the air this year or next?
Will have to get together sometime for a chat, and check out your book on the 190.

  All the best
                 Keith

hi keith,

i would complete the fuz...get it to a primer stage.....then do the rest, this way if you need to make any changes in the primer stage it's easy......hope to have the zero flying this year...need to get to inwoods for some materials...my stock is low at the moment...hate waiting!!......never mind.....yeh love to have a chat sometime on the 190......that book i got is the dogs!...loads of colour schemes.....

keep it coming keith

Lookin great Keith

Nice shape with the cowl on
Like the effort on the glass, great result :ww

Ben

Lookin good there Keith.....................

Cockpit wise..............I leave it as late as possible.................less rick of damage, and getting overspray etc etc on it. It was the very last thing I did on my SisT build..................

Out of interest...............bid ProPag do you the cockpit kit in the correct 1:4.5 scale ??.................or have you shoe horned a 1/4 scale kit in there ?

Phil

Thanks for looking in chaps, and thanks for your advice.Looks like like I'll be leaving the cockpit area 'til later.
 With regards the cockpit kit Phil, to be honest I just opted for the 1/4 scale one, and with a bit of trimming, managed to make it fit. Not sure if they do a 1/4.5 or not , they only list 1/4 or 1/5. Knowing my luck someone is 'gonna tell me they do  . Still, live and learn.
  Just looked in on the Raider build, one word-impressive, looks the dogs dangly bits Phil , well done.
  Will be back with an update later.
 All the best
            Keith

Thanks for the reply keith.....................

I've had a few inquiries about a 1/4.5 190 cockpit, but ProPag definately only list the 1/4 and 1/5, didn't know if this was a 'custom' they had done for you or not......

Cheers.

Phil

Evenin' Phil,
                ref. your last.Does that mean there could be more Vailly 190's on the go? Can't think of any others that are 1/4.5 , Don Smiths' is slightly smaller.
  All the best
                Keith

Definately.................can't remember the last contacts name, but you sure ain't the only one in the UK building the Vailly 190.

P

Hi All.
        I've just started to assemble the parts required to start constructing the wing.I have the laser cut parts, and whilst checking the ribs against the plans ,I find there is a difference.
 With all the ribs laid over the patterns on the plan,rib 1 has the cutouts for the spars about 3/16'' behind the actual position shown on the plan. The difference between actual cutouts on the ribs and that on the plan decreases gradually up to rib 6, where there after the ribs and the cutouts are as per plan.
                               
                                      


  My question is: Do I build the wings   to the pattern that the ribs are cut to, or  do I make new ribs.
As you can see from the image, the leading edge is to be fitted later, so may be this could be a way of trimming  the centre section, should it work out longer than the wing seat.
 Any advice would be greatly received.
 Many thanks
             Keith

Hi Keith,

Does look like a big discrepancy, between drawing & ribs. There certainly wasn't any problem like that with the Tempest's wing ribs, they were quite accurate. Have you tried to 'dry' assemble the wing ribs, to see how they line up. I did with the Tempest, just to see how well everything looked, before I set about working on the inner wing section. Who did the ribs?

TTFN,
Neil

Hi Neil,
         good to hear from you again. I have spent the last few hours mulling over this issue. I think I have a solution to overcome the problem.I pinned some 1/4'' balsa to the plan where the leading edge buts onto the ribs. This means I have a true straight edge to work from when dry fitting. Yes the trailing edge of the ribs overhang the drawings, but this decreases halfway along the wing. The other fault is the cut out for the main spar- not all in alignment. This I intend to resolve by pinning the outer rib and inner rib to my build board, tack the spar in place, then each rib offered up to the spar, then any rib cutouts  out of line can be altered to fit.
 Laser cut kit was made by Laserlizard in the U.S.
 Once adjustments have been made, what in your opinion , is the best method of constructing the wing using a jig for built in washout. And any ideas how to build-in the same washout into the ailerons?
 Many thanks
              Keith

Keith, have you contacted Jessie at Laserlizard to let him know about the issues? worth an email 

Steve

Hi Steve, the answer is no. The reason being that this kit was about 3rd hand before I bought it. Having said that, any of the previous owners would have come across this issue.
I don't have an email address for l'lizard, do you think they may help me out even though I wasn't the original buyer?
  Thanks
           Keith

hi Keith,
sorry to hear about the ribs being too small, the one thing i never did was too check them against the dwg, not the sort of thing you do unless you start to build the thing......i guess the guy i brought it from didn't either....seems a shame when the fuz has gone together OK.....if i was re-cutting the spar...what about opening up the slots so that the spar lies true and then adding light ply doublers to each rib? just a thought...would it work?.....what do you re lie on building in the washout Keith?.....i see the ribs don't have tabs...could you build some wedges under consecutive ribs and reverse it for the other wing at least you will know that both have the same washout..

cheers
Dave

Hi Dave,
           I have emailed Jesse at L'lizard, and has had no reports of this problem. He's sent the measurements of the ribs he cuts, so I'll go away and do some measuring. If they match, then I can continue the build.Opening the cut-out for the  spar is also something I was considering.
Maintaining the wash-out is acheived by the use of a jig -in the kit, and is located just in front of lower rear spar cut-outs. First time I've used this method, as all my other models have had the tabs.
 
 All the best
                Keith

Hi All,
        well it has beenover amonth since my last post, and so thought it time for an update.
 After some minor mods. to the ribs , I was able to continue with the build.
First was to lay the wash-out jig in the designated area-just in front of the notches for the lower rear spar. Next was to pin lengths of balsa along the rib leading eges on the plan, this would keep all ribs aligned during the build .

                                               [imghttp://www.rcmf.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/14087/FW_190_wing_jig.JPG]http://[/img]


 Before I started to build the wing panels, lightening holes of various sizes were drilled out of the ribs .
All ribs were dry fitted to ensure alignment and tha the spars fitted correctly. Once satisfied, main upper spar was glued followed by the upper rear. 1/4 square was also glued into position to help keep the frame rigid and to keep the wash-out. Once the glue had dried, the panel was turned over then fitted the lower main spar then lower rear spar. Shear webbs were then fitted after the glue had cured.

                                       

 Retract bearers now have to be cut and shaped for dry fit, and soon be ready to skin the upper surface.
 At this point I would like to ask the question: To avoid hangar rash on the wing trailing edge, what is the best material to use to cut and blend into the ablsa sheet to prevent damage? In the past I have used 1/16 or 1/32 ply.

 That about all for now.
   Cheers
              Keith


                             

I've laid in thin carbon strip or thin proskin between balsa top and bottom skins to make a rock hard TE..................0.2 to 0.3mm thick is normally about right.

Phil

Keiths missing first picture...




Keith,
I notice you did decide to build your ailerons separate from the panel :ww. Will be interested to see how it turns out.
All the best,
Steve

Hi Keith,

Lookin' good. I always put carbon down my trailing edges. Not only does it reduce 'hanger rash' but stops warping. You can also get a nice sharp finish there, too. This is my P-40 elevators & the carbon.
http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php/topic,28633.75.html

What I do is cut 2 lenths of carbon - to fit the length of the T/E. Wet one out & then twist it & then put it in place, right on the egde of the balsa (helps if you put an extra bit of chamfer in the balsa to allow for the carbon). Then smooth the carbon down & repeat with the 2nd length of carbon. The twisting you put in the carbon tow will stop it spreading out to far.

TTFN,
Neil

Thanks for the info chaps. With regards to Proskin, who stocks it ,and what size and thickness are available?
 Thanks for sorting the picture out Steve, don't know what went wrong. 

   Keith

Keith,
Proper Proskin is from Mick Reeves:- http://mickreevesmodels.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/pro.htm

Falcon Aviation also do some & phenolic sheet... http://www.123pc.org/fa/en-gb/p_41.html

Steve