Topic: Whitehead P-38 Lightning

Hi Jamie,

I really couldn't tell you what the stalling speed was! It depends on the final weight of your model. Do you have access to a similar model to practise on? Such as a 25 sized funfighter (like the old Cambrian range?) Maybe a club member has one? I am sure that the P38 will fly very similar to these models (and maybe even easier to hand launch due to the central pod)

Sorry for the quality of the photos, just dug these out from the loft and scanned them!

Best of luck,

Steve


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I locked myself in my new shed for about 3 hours last night and bashed on with more fibreglassing....

I don't have any lights in there yet so I could only last until around 8pm when the light started to fade  :(

Anyhow though, previously I'd only got as far as glassing the top of the wing. That was my first attempt at glassing a model ever...

Last night, I aimed to do a better job. The top of the wing came out ok, certainly useable, but needed a bit of sanding as I was just a touch heavy on the resin in a few localised areas.

In the 3 hours I managed to get the underside of the wings glassed, both underwing servo hatches, both ailerons, both fins, both boom sections which stay with the wings and one of the booms.

For the boom I copied Neilly's technique of going the whole hog with a single piece of cloth. I went back in this morning before leaving for work and I'm fairly pleased with the results so far....

I'll glass the rest of the bits I've made so far then give it a lick of primer to see how well I've really done 

Hi Jamie

I used to spend hours sanding the resin before I applied the primer then another few hours sanding the primer.  Don’t remember where I read it, but somewhere on this forum somebody suggested just spray the primer over the resin without sanding then sand after that, works a treat and saves quite a lot of time.

Like the build, looking good. 

Alex

Hi Guys,

I used to spend hours sanding the resin before I applied the primer then another few hours sanding the primer.  Don’t remember where I read it, but somewhere on this forum somebody suggested just spray the primer over the resin without sanding then sand after that, works a treat and saves quite a lot of time.

That would be me I'm a lazy git on a good day The other beauty of doing it this way is - you can see exactly how far to cut back the resin. No need to keep drying the area you're sanding & checking how close you are to the cloth. Just sand away till the primer is all but gone

TTFN,
Neil

I'm sorta 1/2 and 1/2 on this one....I always key back the 2nd resin coat with course 80 grit, just to knock the top off......................then primer, then wet sand with 120 grit.................

I just prefer taking the gloss off the resin as 1), I gives the primer a getter key, 2) you're removing a little resin, so removing a little weight......gotta be a good thing.

....but it does take longer.............

Phil

This might seem like a daft question.....

But do I need a second coat of resin?

Sadly I'm lazy too... I've applied the cloth and 1st coat of resin to all the bits I've made so far, and it's ready for said second coat.

Another stupid question: What do I thin resin with? I'm using Z-Poxy and 3/4oz cloth if that matters.

Cheers chaps - it's fantastic having this place for help. It eliminates the trial and error to a large extent for people like me. All the flying clubs round me are great for solarfilm opinions and CA science  Not so hot if you have an interest in scale models. Ok, this Lightning is nothing great, but it's letting me gain experience with the techniques on a small project with limited costs if I screw it up 

Hi Jamie,

A second coat?  Depends what sort of finish you want. If you want a good finish then it's a definite yes.

As for thinning - Not really sure, I've never used Z-Poly. I used to use meths. However, the stuff I use now doesn't need thinning, it's so good.

Happy sanding

TTFN,
Neil

Then a 2nd coat it shall have....

Out of interest what is it you use now? Incidently what sort of viscosity am I aiming for on the 2nd coat?

Z-Poxy straight out of the bottles is a bit thinner than syrup, but not a lot. It spreads fine enough.

Although it's by no means dry, there's a fair bit of weave still there. As I said - nothing special this model, but there's if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. The bigger models will then benefit from the experience.... 

Jamie
to thin it down without resorting to chucking chemicals in it ,which I believe will weaken the mixture anyway , try warming it up once mixed . Use a warm water bath to hold the mixed epoxy container in (Phil has a way of doing this I seem to remember) If its warm it flows better and seems thinner without actually reducing the strength of the material 

 I hope I am making sense here ?!? 

Shane

I agree with Shane 

If you do resort to thinning, Fibertech make thinners that work rather well…………….however, it will reduce the strength of the resin………….probably wouldn’t recommend it.  I do use the technique for certain areas that don’t require being particularly strong. 

Heating the resin is probably the best thing to do. I went out to Wilkinsons and bought some take-away containers, just dip these into hot water until the resin is thinner.  I’m definitely no expert compared to others on the site but this works well for me.  Hope it goes well 

Thanks for the tip Neil 

Alex

i preferred to thin befoe mixing, afterwards just wasted precious working time and made it go off quicker.

Alright, today I got out the razor saw again....

First a few bits to make the centre fuselage:


And a few of the above bits stuck together in a Lightningish shape:


Just the usual construction for this model now.....


Fast Forward a bit to save everyone getting too bored:


And from another angle:


Just got cowlings and radiators to make now, and to fit the canopy - which I think is going to be a bit of a faff...

Thats a nice tidy job you are doing there Jamie. It will look superb in the air. I built and flew one of these years ago with two enya 15s in and it went like a rocket. I wouldnt mind another one actually but too many planes on the build already. Keep the pics coming its looking good  . Ian

Thanks Ian 

I'm really looking forward to trying this thing when it's finally finished 

I stumbled across Lefty Gardener's example on video the other day - nice motivational stuff 

Motivational Video Here

I gave up thinning resin (using Fibertech thinner) a few years ago after I had problems with it effecting the cured resin.

The main problem with warming the resin before it's mixed is that once mixed, the heat build up can cause the mixed resin to start to cure faster, so reducing working time.

Once mixed, decant the resin out into a FLAT container with a large surface area (tin foil take away food containers are ideal), aiming to have a minimal depth of resin.......a large surface area will aid heat dissipation, preventing the resin from starting to cure in the pot. If you leave it in a deep pot, with minimal surface area, the heat builds up, and you'll have a 'gel' mess in a matter of minutes................

When using Z-Poxy, SP113 etc etc, I warm each bottle in a 1/2 full coffee cup of hot water for 10 mins before mixing.

A thinner resin will also card/brush out much better, resulting in a thinner layer being applied, so less weight build up.

Phil

When I need to mix epoxy I stick the bottles in the microwave for 15 to 20 seconds. Does the trick beautifully! 

Paint Masks

Who can make / where to get paint masks? 

These are about as good as my documentation gets. Are these enough to produce masks from? 

The scale is 1/12........







Would the girl be best produced as a decal rather than some attempt to mask?  I've only ever used vinyl stickers until now and have been wholey unstatisfied (because they're Carp).

How do I do this properly gents (and the odd lady dotted here and there)?

you could go for something like lazertran transfers:

http://www.lazertran.com/products/lazertran_products_inkjet.htm

california cutie 

I can use that for the girl on the nose - infact I've got some at home I'm pretty sure.... Cheers for that - you just reminded me 

I don't have one of those funny printers which prints white though - so I'll still need some masks for the lettering and stars & bars 

Jamie - check your PMs

Jamie - check your PMs

Gotcha, and PM'd back 

Incidently - does anyone have a clue what the black stenciling beneath the nose art should say? 

"All the way to Iran and all I got was this lousy towel"?

 

It's a headscarf love 

Does anyone have any experience of Promark dry transfers?

They have California Cutie listed on their price list with a "Call" where the price should be. I'm not calling America so I've emailed them for a quote.

http://www.pro-mark.com/

Any good? 

From the pro-mark website - there appears to be a uk dealer.


MIKE'S MODELS

Mike Leavernesey

3-5 Brockwell Rd
Kingstanding Birmingham
England B449PE

Tel 44 1213607350
Fax 44 1213607350

Promark want $300 plus shipping as it's a one-off size....ouch.

I've politely declined. It was a fast response from them though so credit where credit's due, they were quick 

Wow. stil - with the exchange rate.....

Even calling it £150 plus postage for transfers is a bit much for a 52" span model me thinks 

Can you not make and print your own or am I missing something?

That's a maybe....

Someone on this forum has offered some help but;

It's dependant upon me getting a good square on image of the nose art for him to trace reproduce on his ALPS printer.

Don't suppose anyone can help on that front? 

Jamie

Have you seen this?

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5198578&highlight=California+cutie#post5198578

If Flying Styro do that medel and it;s about the same size then you could well be sorted out.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/p-38.htm

43.75" span. = 1/14th scale

Brian

 

Nice find Brian! I've sent them an email - fingers crossed. I wonder what the time is in the Czech Republic? I'll probably have to wait now 

Nice find Brian! I've sent them an email - fingers crossed. I wonder what the time is in the Czech Republic? I'll probably have to wait now 

It's about 1867 isn't it?

Dunno mate- I've never been, supposed to be THE place for a stag do though.

Hi jamie
For a long time did not see your messages... Whether thought have sent you to us to Russia ... It is glad that your project proceeds... Success 

Ruslan

Thanks Ruslan 

Well I didn't do much this weekend.... I did get the firewalls done and engines mounted (temporarily at least).

The worrying thing is that it now balances perfectly 

No radio, no props, no spinners, no cowls, no glass on the cockpit fuz, no radiators, no elevator and no rudders.

Sweepstake on whether it'll be tail heavy or noseheavy anyone? 

It's been a while, but I've made a little progress on the Lightning and a lot of progress on the hobby as a whole.

Back at the start of the year when my shed arrived SWMBO essentially threw all my modelling related stuff in it. I never took the time to sort the place out and it was no pleasure trying to work in it. All my tools were scattered amongst different carrier bags mixed with modelling odds and ends etc.

This week SWMBO helped me to tidy up and organise the place. I've moved more stuff in and still have more space to work. Yesterday I fitted my strip light and sorted out an extension lead from the house for when I need power (and there's a circuit breaker in the shed  ).

Today I made both cowlings which I didn't enjoy but am fairly pleased with the results. I also roughed out one of the four radiators and thought I'd better spend a little time with the missus now  .

I'm pleased I have power when I need it now, and I was in there until quite late last night (hadn't noticed it was dark outside) and the lighting is great .

That's all for now 

This week SWMBO helped me to tidy up and organise the place.

I'm pleased I have power when I need it now, and I was in there until quite late last night

That's marriage for you 

That's marriage for you 

Well credit where credit's due and all that 

I was being a right baby about it - cring about how it was too messy and I didn't know where anything was 

Righto - time to crack on with this.

If I don't post progress pics by this evening someone needs to kick my backside. I don't want to waste my time off work!!!

P.S. I found the original set of plans I bought (and lost). If anyone wants them, just shout and you can have them. Canopies are about a tenner I think from Traplet