Topic: Galaxy Models Mustang (Take two)

Just need to find a decent rivet pattern drawing. I was going to wing it on the rivets, until I saw Mudders' 'Bolt this morning. Jus a nice looking 'Bolt indeed.

Well I guess that means you want to borrow my 1/24 scale P-51 3-views then 

Phil

Here phil , i reckon you should start a line in three views at this rate you would make a killing ! Flap get those p47 drawings back to phil sharpish ! There is a queue forming ! Mickey

Mat kindly made 2 copies of the P-47 3-views....gave them all back to me at Gaydon on Sunday.

I'll shove a set in the post to you soon as (once the men in red vans are all back to work)

Phil

Lovely , cheers phil ! Mickey

Mat kindly made 2 copies of the P-47 3-views....gave them all back to me at Gaydon on Sunday.

Phil

Just thinkin of you Mickey 

Mat , phil what fine fellows you both are !! Thank you both ! Mickey

Well I guess that means you want to borrow my 1/24 scale P-51 3-views then 

Phil

Phil,

That would be wonderful if you could see your way to getting them down to me.

I will of course furnish any costs involved.

This is getting better all the time. 

Charlie C

I have actually managed to get some more done this week.

I spent an hour or two, or three, or four, you get the picture rubbing down, applying filler to those nast bits that jump out at you until yo think you have a surface worthy of the application of the next coat of primer.

Then, you spot yet another little blemish that might stand out, so, you do it all again till eventually you end up witha surface finish that looks something like this.

Charlie C

After all that rubbing down, I managed to get in the garage and actually apply some primer whilst all the time hoping that it was all going to come out OK and no more work required.

Fat chance 

Although not that much to do, just a few bits on the fuselage, one wingtip where I bashed it on the bench  and the elevators, its still more tedious rubbing down.

Still, its my own fault. Should have done it right in the first place 

Charlie C

Looking good there- I hope to graduate to larger models sometime in the near future.

One tip- If you get the chance get some trade white emulsion and paint the inside of the garage. I did it with mine and it has made an amazing difference. Mine took a shade over 25l (there's still an unpainted corrner above the toolbox and behind the stereo) and I bought a cheap roller and tray from B&Q for a couple of quid.

Makes working on your models so much easier because the white paint reflects the light.

Looking great Charlie of the C

Its nearly rivets o'clock then huh?

Ian.

Looking good there- I hope to graduate to larger models sometime in the near future.

One tip- If you get the chance get some trade white emulsion and paint the inside of the garage. I did it with mine and it has made an amazing difference. Mine took a shade over 25l (there's still an unpainted corrner above the toolbox and behind the stereo) and I bought a cheap roller and tray from B&Q for a couple of quid.

Makes working on your models so much easier because the white paint reflects the light.

Funny ewe should mention that, Eh Mr Sheep 

CC

Looking great Charlie of the C

Its nearly rivets o'clock then huh?

Ian.

Yup,

Its getting very close to rivets o'clock Sir Ian. Never done proper scale type stuff before as in panel lines and rivets.

Hope I don't make a mess of it.

Charlie C

It's easy, just time consuming........follow & tried and tested method and it'll be just fine  Looks like you have a nice base to work from after all that elbow grease, so it should be good.

Phil

It's easy, just time consuming........follow & tried and tested method and it'll be just fine  Looks like you have a nice base to work from after all that elbow grease, so it should be good.

Phil

Thanks Phil,

Nearly there. Did you manage to put your hand on those charts per chance 

Charlie C

Thanks Phil,

Nearly there. Did you manage to put your hand on those charts per chance 

Charlie C

No  .......I have a horrible feeling I lent the book to the old man and I'm not seeing him again until Xmas. I'll keep hunting for another source though..........

Phil

No  .......I have a horrible feeling I lent the book to the old man and I'm not seeing him again until Xmas. I'll keep hunting for another source though..........

Phil

Its OK Phil, don't worry about it.

Stueysheep took loads of photos of the P51 at the Colt boy's bash earlier on this year. I have a small panel line picture taken form a book, sooooo, I think I may be able to manage.

Just need to sit down and watch the You tube bits you guys have put on here.

Right, next installment will be panel lines and rivets, and rivets, and rivets....................................
and rive, oh you get the picture.

Charlie C

There are some scale drawings on here which will show panels etc.

þÅÒÔÅÖÉ

Ian.

There are some scale drawings on here which will show panels etc.

þÅÒÔÅÖÉ

Ian.

Cheers Ian,

 

That works a treat.

Game on, with a bit of help scalding form Mr Sheep that is. (he's good at it)

Charlie C

Cheers Ian,

 

That works a treat.

Game on, with a bit of help scalding form Mr Sheep that is. (he's good at it)

Charlie C

Scaling?

Cheers Ian,

 

That works a treat.

Game on, with a bit of help scalding form Mr Sheep that is. (he's good at it)

Charlie C

Form?

There are some scale drawings on here which will show panels etc.

þÅÒÔÅÖÉ

Ian.

This is the 'other' set I knew I had.......................I'll e-mail you the relavant ones to save you travling though all thise ZIP files.............

Phil

This is the 'other' set I knew I had.......................I'll e-mail you the relavant ones to save you travling though all thise ZIP files.............

Phil

Sorted fellas,
 
Thanks a lot to both of you. 

CC

There is a walkaround of a restored P-51D in RAAF colours at North American P-51 Mustang Walkaround Photos.

Steve

Hello All,

Been marking out panel lines tonight, with mathematical the help of Mr Sheep of this parish, ( I'm rubbish at maths) to get me going, working to the views supplied by that nice Mr Clark of Fighteraces fame. Cheers Phil 

Must say that we are very happy with the initial results.
Just found out though, that my P51, although generally the right shape isn't actually of the right proportions, however, we can get round that.

The next question I have for you guys of far more experience than I is:

RIVETS  .

In my day, (God that makes me sound old), rivets came in 2.8mm, 3.2mm, 4.2mm or 4.8mm, or if you really want it in old money, 3/32" 1/8", 5/32" and 3/16" sizes, and the rivet heads are, I thing in general terms twice the size of the shank.

My Mustang being 1/6th scale means that even big rivets full size will be less than 2mm. What sort of sizes do you guys use, and just as importantly where do I get brass tubing that small to stick in my soldering iron.

Having never done this before, I really don't have a clue, so , any help, as always would be very well received.

Charlie C

most model shops have the K & B rack of small tubing and loads of other shapes in 12" lengths.

The brass stock K&S not K&B...........

A full-size flush river head was around 1/4" diameter, so at this scale, you want to use around 1/32" brass tube, sharpened on the inside edge to create a sharp ring. 1/32" is a tad small really, but once the 'ring' has been melted into the paint, it's slightly bigger, plus, it's best t under too this technique rather than over do it.

If you buy 3-4 sizes of tube (all concentric) you can slide 1 into the next to build up diameter, crimp them all together, then it'll be about the right side to slide into the end of your soldering iron.

Phil

riveting stuff Charlie 

Anyone used hyperdermic needles? for mock riveting that is. 

For applying 'glue blob' domed head rivets with a small syringe....Yes......in an iron for flush rivets no....the heat will melt the plastic!!!

For applying 'glue blob' domed head rivets with a small syringe....Yes......in an iron for flush rivets no....the heat will melt the plastic!!!

can't you remove the metal needle from the plastic syringe and just use the metal bit?

Never tried.

Hyperdermic tube is pretty small dia as well.................it's also st/st, so BL**dy hard to sharpen. With brass, you can just shove the tip of #11 blade up the end, spin it a few times, job done.

Never tried.

Hyperdermic tube is pretty small dia as well.................it's also st/st, so BL**dy hard to sharpen. With brass, you can just shove the tip of #11 blade up the end, spin it a few times, job done.

Never thought about the hardness... Brass tube it must be then, Thanks Phil...

Hello all,

Just to prove that rivets o'clock is rapidly approaching, here is proof that Stueysheeps maths works.

Takes an engineer to draw an accurate line tho 

Thanks for the help Stu.

Charlie C

Lookin Goooood Mr C 

Lookin Goooood Mr C 

Echo that

Richard

Awww,

Thanks guys. Not done anything today, been DIY'n, earning some brownie points. Might sneal out for an hour or so this evening tho 

CC

No piccies tonight, will be some tomorrow evening once the wing is finished ready for painting.

A couple of questions though.

The rudder has no panel lines, just seems like its fabric covered. What should I do to it. I was thinking tissue paper as I think solar tex would be to thick for stitching tapes. 

Also, should I spray the spinner the same silver as the fuselage or leave it in its natural alloy state.

Two things I have never had to think about before.

Charlie C

I can't help with the tapes mate, but I would leave the spinner, or the first time you leccy start, the paint will come off and...

 

Rudder & elevators on P-51's were fabric covered with stitching & tapes. At this scale, Solartex works fine.....rip it into approx 1/4" wide strips and iron it on (ripping it gives a slightly raggie edge). I use the 'natural' as personally, I find it a little 'thinner' than any of the coloured fabrics.

Spinner.......give it a GOOD rub down with fine wet & dry to remove the shine. Go to Halfords and get yourself a can of 'U-Pol Acid Etch #8'........this is a grey etch primer in an aerosol........a coat of this followed by top coat paint and you'll be good to go. If you do this, it should be a while before your leccy starter takes the paint off.

Phil

Rudder & elevators on P-51's were fabric covered with stitching & tapes. At this scale, Solartex works fine.....rip it into approx 1/4" wide strips and iron it on (ripping it gives a slightly raggie edge). I use the 'natural' as personally, I find it a little 'thinner' than any of the coloured fabrics.

Spinner.......give it a GOOD rub down with fine wet & dry to remove the shine. Go to Halfords and get yourself a can of 'U-Pol Acid Etch #8'........this is a grey etch primer in an aerosol........a coat of this followed by top coat paint and you'll be good to go. If you do this, it should be a while before your leccy starter takes the paint off.

Phil

 

Sorted.

Thanks once again Phil

Charlie C