Topic: 1/3 Fokker D.VI...again...

Hi folks,

In the aftermath of the great server crash of 2009, in true british style, and if anyone is interested, I'll repost some piccys of the build so far.

Mud

Mudders

please do - I've been seaching the site for news of the build - drove past the (empty) field on my way to work.....this Sunday!
Will they find your thread?  Hope the build is going well.

JimBo

Hi Mat,
      I was wondering whether you would find the incentive to try and rebuild what was a truly great thread, & in my opinion one of the great casualties of the crash! I suppose the way of looking at it is that although it would be nigh on impossible to recreate the whole thread in It's entirety, everyone that was following the thread have already read all that old waffle so we'd be happy to see the thread continue with a sequence of catch up photo's.
Please do

Walts.

.... so we'd be happy to see the thread continue with a sequence of catch up photo's.
Please do

Wot 'e said

OK dokey fellas,

October 10th 2008 and I took delivery...

   

   

I was impressed with all that is included in the kit, all the little things I had been researching that I expected to have to buy extra were included 

I started with the lower wing, all wood was a good fit, the laser cut shear webbing is cut so each piece has it's own place and orientation.

 

   

Once main woodwork was done it was on to the LE. The parts don't seem to line up right but a little fettling and it fitted. One thing to note is you should block up the 'points' to the same height as the rib capping. I wish I had as it would make the covering/shrinking so much easier.

 ::cc Yay ::cc Go Mudders..


I'm Back

Jeff

One thing to note is you should block up the 'points' to the same height as the rib capping. I wish I had as it would make the covering/shrinking so much easier.

Mat,

Every serious article about the sawtooth that I've seen, says they should be lower than the ribs, is there new info out??


Mark.

Tth saw tooth should be level with the ribs, this being achieved on the prototype A/C by the inclusion of small blocks attatched to the wing spar bringing the apex of the saw tooth level. The idea being that the aforementioned saw tooth acted as riblets therebye maintaining the airfoil section between the ribs. If you dont believe me ask my missis who knows everything there is to know about everything (or reckons she does). Regards to all Ken  ;copper;

Ken,

Where does this info come from, because as I said above, it disagrees with just about everything else I've found.


Mark.

I stand corrected, (or sit at the minute!), The GTM plan does indeed have the sawtooth level with the top of the RIBS, not the RIB CAPPING as I thought. Thing is that makes covering all the more difficult...

Mat

Thing is that makes covering all the more difficult...

Mat

why's that mudder...

why's that mudder...

Because the fabric is that much closer to the mainspar, it sage and takes the shape of the spar, removal is almost impossible, and it leaves a nasty ridge all the way down the wing

You can see I added there brackets that will support the 'N' struts. Glued and screwed, once covered there is no access to these.




Here is the bottom wing structure complete, the ribbon stops the ribs from twisting as per the fullsize I believe.




Mud

On to the Top Wing.

If I had to do this again, I would put a few holes into each rib to try and lighten it a bit, but the structure is very strong.

Again, build over the plan, LOADS of shear webbing to glue up, here it is just before the dreaded sawtooth goes on.



Here are the tubes in place to take the hinge bolts.





Mud

Next up the scale hinges.

First knock up the bending jig (all this stuff is supplied in the kit  )



Then take the strap and brass bush..



Bend the strap oner the jig,





I clamped mine in place, make sure the strip in the middle is over the slot in the jig



Grab an old screwdriver and round off the tip as close as possible to the curvature of the brass bush..



Offer it up to the strip in the strap 



and gently tap it down, trying to keep a even bend.





Glenn supplies a steel pin, round off the end and insert into the strap to get a perfect circle and insert the brass bush. Job Done









Mat

Those hinges look the business.I would never have thought of making them that way. I really would like to build one of these one day.

Simon

As per the fullsize Simon, just a bit smaller
I forgot, there are two sizes of hinge to make, the larger are for the ailerons, and the smaller for the tail feathers.



Here is one of the control horns, made from 3 laminations of that fiber-glassey stuff (G10??) sanded to shape (this one had a little more sanding done after this shot)



And on to the ailerons..

Here are the laser cut parts



Buillt over the plan, with hinges and control horns slid into place but not fixed yet. You can see the brass tube stops either side of the hinge, this will later be fixed in place to stop the aileron sliding side to side on the dowel.





The tip is not glued in place yet as it is tweaked up a bit to match the profile of the wing tip.



Each riblet is made from 3 laminations, ply in the centre and balsa either side.

Once it's all together the hinge collors are fixed in place with brass pins and a careful splurge of cyano, being very carefull not to get it under the moving part of the hinge, the aileron is mounted and the tips glued in place, the control horn is cyanoed in place at 90deg.



Mud

The sawtooth next, and after doing this one and reading about others I believe there are slight descrepencies with the cut of each piece. Top and lower wing. It is quite tricky to fit, but with care can be done. I had to cut some of the sawtooth peices to get a good fit. there are 5 parts to the top wing, the destructions say use a slow glue, I don't know hoe anyone would, so I used cyano







Mud

Next up... wheels. Fokker wheels are flat on the inside face and coned on the outside (usually). I bought some BUSA wheels and...














Mud

Next was the subwing, quite simple really, the mainspar is a box that houses the axle. You can only build this so far untill the fus is done and indecences are set, but it needs to be done.



Mud

On swiftly to the fus, never a one to make thing easy for my self I chose the dowel option over square stick. The dowels have to be knotched to give a better glueing surface.





I haven't many piccys but here is the fus done, (the two outer halves built over the plan then joined) and mounted on the subwing ready to set the struts in place with JB weld (supplied!).




Mud

The rudder is formed around a laser cut cardboard template, 5 laminations, 3 balsa and 2 ply, glued and taped with white glue.









Mud

Here is the stab, same construction, laminated ribs etc, the construction again is as near as dam it to the fullsize, but in wood









Apologies for rattlig through, but I'm getting behind with the upto date stuff

Here is the fus so far, the struts have pre bent piano wire JB welded in, and are clamped with small 'J' bolts to the structure. Care is required to obtain the correct incedence.



Mud

PS It's not untill you go back and do this again you realise just how much work is involved  Loads to go (sorry!)

I painted the fus grey to make the wood dissapear amd look a bit more like primed metal. I matched the colour from a piccy I have of a D7. Also cut out the tail skid and added a brass strip to help guard wear a little. Then string it up with kevlar thread which makes the whole thing rigid.







In the cockpit area I added brass loops to take bracing wires, and started wrapping the fus.







Mud

Time to add the rear cockpit deck.





And servo's



I had a go (for the first time) at making some cockpit parts, one of thereasons I wanted a larger model is tha with the smaller jobbys, there normally just isn't enough room to get all the stuff in.

 

 

 



The seat is included in the kit.

 

Mud

Side cheeks added and given a coat of stain varnish along with the top rear deck.



I had a go at knocking up a couple of spandaus (BUSA)

 

 



Mud

Great to see you thread back again. Its going to be great when finished

Simon

Thanks Simon, a bit of a chore to keep posting, but I'm getting there, 18pages in the old thread 

Here is the ammo box included in the kit, front, back and sides with small pins inserted for rivets.



Here is the cowl components,

 

I rolled the front piece, glenn supplies tape with the rivet locations marked on it. Stick it on and drill, around 200 of em!





on the inside of the cowl the rivets are cut and glued in place with Hysol, GTM say to bend them over and epoxy, but the pins are hard to bend without distorting the ally cowl parts.

 

It was then painted with WBC, a match from a chip of an original Fokker.



Mud

glad you are posting again Mud.....

looking great......quite similar to the D.VIII in parts......

i guess you would fully recomend one of Glenn's kits?.....

that fuel gauge is again very similar........on the D.VIII it is partially covered...about 85% is visible.....

dave

glad you are posting again Mud.....

looking great......quite similar to the D.VIII in parts......

i guess you would fully recomend one of Glenn's kits?.....

that fuel gauge is again very similar........on the D.VIII it is partially covered...about 85% is visible.....

dave

I can very much reccomend a GTM kit. They are not as cheap as some, but when you see what is included, it's good value, and pretty close to scale, in fact short of laying the GTM drawings over the original plans, I can't find any difference so far...

The fuel guage you have made is very close if not, an exact match to the GTM offering. I'll be trying to make the guage cover plug on the lathe tommorrow....

Mud 

Boy this is fun! On saturday my dad had a small heart attack. He went to ipswich hospital, I went to see him that pm. I got home, had some tea, and my appendix burst....OW! back to the hospital blue lights and my new best friend.. morphine   anyway, i can log in from my bed here, but obviously i can;t contunue building for a while

Mud

Wondered why you did'nt answer me txt or your front door yesterday.

PM me your ward as I am up the hospital with the wife tomoz.

Jeff

Sorry to hear that Mate, hope both of you are up and about soon 

Steve

hmmmmmmm good time to get all those detailing bits made up from the hospital bed 

Wishing you and your dad a swift recovery, good luck mate 

get well soon mud!!....

all the best

dave

mudders.. what a shocker..........

puts it all into perspective doesn't it......

you and your pop get well mate... and feel better soon..

Did you get the OK for me to visit in the morning ?

Jeff

cheers guys, I'm hoping to be home by the weekend. I'll keep looking in here. It's all thats keeping me sane

Smudge, should be ok, give me a look and ill hobble over!