Topic: cooling the esc

i don't know how many of the e2k planes are flying and how many flights have been made, but i did notice some feedback. And that was the 60 amp esc was cutting out, possibly due to overheating

the design does not include cooling inside the fus. so has anyone had a problem..

is anyone adding intakes at the front

are peoples batteries getting hot...

opinions would be greatfully received...

Batteries no just warm
overheating on s/c no
but do have vent holes   1 at the front 10mm diamater and 1 10mm hole each side of the nose together with air passage through to the tail


wasp 60 s/c no probs (not totally obvious which side is the heat sink)
turborix s/c no probs
castle creations 120 no probs

all so far with no prob, i think it would be unwise not to run venting of somekind when we do/if get the hot summer days

Batteries no just warm
overheating on s/c no
but do have vent holes   1 at the front 10mm diamater and 1 10mm hole each side of the nose together with air passage through to the tail

wasp 60 s/c no probs (not totally obvious which side is the heat sink)
turborix s/c no probs
castle creations 120 no probs

all so far with no prob, i think it would be unwise not to run venting of somekind when we do/if get the hot summer days

Thanks CF

The front 10mm hole, where do you suggest, in the firewall behind the motor in line with the shaft. or below the engine where the wires poke through?

For the ones each side of the nose, how far back do you suggest?

Sorry for the questions.. 

Tis a tricky one - i've not got any cooling holes in mine at the moment but i've not tried it yet. If i'd stop messing around on here and go and finish it I might come up with some answers

My inital thoughts are that, as i'm using a 70A esc and probably in the air not drawing more than 45A it should be OK, although as Darren says the ambient temprature can make a big difference. In a race you should only be flying for around 90s (I wish  ) although if you're rubbish like me you'll probably end up with around 2 mins including landing circuit and compulsory rolling vertical climb at the end of the race 

Just as a thought I drilled the hole for the wires above the motor then velcroed the esc to the top of the fuz - that way I can lay the battery in the bottom of the fuz without the esc getting in the way 

I have a mate who runs a 2kw set-up in a glider - this is 100A running out of 2200mah 6s batteries. No cooling provision. Motor runs are limited though - 5-6 seconds each. I think the key is making it suitable for use. If it was me I wouldn't want to cool it. I'd rather have the battery getting warm than being cooled for racing. Slit open the ESC heatshrink and slip in some extra ally plate so that it is in contact with the FET's? Should help to act as a heatsink and keep the overal temp of the esc lower for a longer time. Plenty of time between heats for it to disappate.

Z

No prob stuey...............tbh i think the only time it may be a prob is the real hot days
Im not sure if the theory stands that a larger s/c would be cooler than a smaller one.

Heat of my batterys and steves were nice enough to pass onto my old man as handwarmers, they wernt excessive and would say they were at optimun tempurature, s/c was warm but again didnt seem excessive and mine and steves didnt show any sighns if cutting out, that was after 5min plus flights, racing will be around 120 sec to 150sec for a novice and 70+ sec for an experianced racer

Holes i did the main hole for the wires at the top of the bulkhead, 10mm elongated on each side, did a 5mm hole for the centre shaft to go through and a 10mm hole at the botton of the bulkhead for air entry and a 10mm hole each side of the fuzz just before the trailing edge as vents
Its been ok so far