Topic: 1/4 Scale D B Sport Scale Sopwith Pup Build

77" 1/4 Scale DB Sport & Scale Sopwith Pup

I have previously built the DB Hurricane and Spitfire and now moving on to WW1 for a change and possibly the SE 5 next year. The kit box is smaller and lighter compared to Spitfire and Hurricane box.  Very well packed balsa and ply parts with superb laser cut parts as is now the trade mark of D B Sport & Scale.  The laser cut parts are easy to remove from their hold and as usual very accurate over the plan.

Three large plans are supplied with comprehensive booklet which takes you stage by stage through the build.  All balsa parts are easy to identify since they are numbered.  Tip:  if there is a bunch of balsa stock and only one has the ID mark I suggest you mark the rest with pen so that you can identify them after removing them from the bunch (usually taped together with blue tape).  

Also do make sure you double check items, I was looking for fuselage longerons 1/4 " square and found some balsa that size, but further digging around revealed the correct item which are not balsa (spruce I think they are).

Looking forward to this build, might encourage me to get another one!

Does the latest version of the kit still have one piece wings?    If so, you might consider modding the build to the more 'modern' approach of separate port / starboard panels - makes storage and transportation so much easier!      If you want to stick with one piece versions I've got a little used roof top coffin box specially built for DB Pup wings that is currently surplus to requirements

Alan

YAY 

Subscribed, I love me ole Pup, lovely to fly 

Mud

YAY 

Subscribed, I love me ole Pup, lovely to fly 

Mud

and hopefully will share the sky tomorrow with a d7 and a camel...

and hopefully will share the sky tomorrow with a d7 and a camel...

Yes, yes

I'm following this build with interest as well as I'm doing the Dove from the same plan (no kit) for electric power.

Looking forward to this build, might encourage me to get another one!

Does the latest version of the kit still have one piece wings?    If so, you might consider modding the build to the more 'modern' approach of separate port / starboard panels - makes storage and transportation so much easier!      If you want to stick with one piece versions I've got a little used roof top coffin box specially built for DB Pup wings that is currently surplus to requirements

Alan

No the latest version kit has split wings and quick rigging  system, no fiddly turn buckles to worry about, a simple push the wire in in a special attachment and it locks where you want it and to release push on relerase mecahnism and it's off (this will be shown later during the build). 

Also has a very clever system of joining the wing panels to the centre section (bottom wing) and two panels together on top wing without the use of screws or other conventional attachment,  again this will be covered during the build.

Alan 

Also has a very clever system of joining the wing panels to the centre section (bottom wing) and two panels together on top wing without the use of screws or other conventional attachment,  again this will be covered during the build.

I seem to remember someone saying that DB had some new device, a sort of spring steel tab with a hole in that slides on wire joiners now you come to mention it.  Look forward to seeing how the ol' girl has changed over the years - I understand that the one that I had was a review model from years back when the kit came out in the '80s but I've never seen a review socan't be certain

Looks like I'm stuck with the coffin then ........

Alan

I seem to remember someone saying that DB had some new device, a sort of spring steel tab with a hole in that slides on wire joiners now you come to mention it.

That is it exactly how you described it a sort of spring steel tab with a hole in which  slides a steel rod joiners   The angle of the spring tab allows the steel rod joiner to slide in but if you try to pull apart it jams (sort of point loaded friction bind) and as soon as you press on the spring steel tab, it alters its angle and thus the steel rod joiner is then allowed to slide back out.  Very simple but very effective allowing a push fit the wing panels.

Hopefully later on during the build the pictures will paint thousand words.

Alan

This from the DB websie......


http://www.dbsportandscale.com/auster-J1.htm

Fuselage Left Frame

The basic fuselage left frame work done it will  now be removed from plan turned over and the fuselage doubler glued on the inside.  As usual you have to ensure you make one left and one right frame (to ensure right and left are created some attention must be paid to the tail end and how certain uprights and diagonals  are fitted on which sheeting sits. these are hidden under the sheeting at tail end in this photo)  The right frame has been started and should be dry by tomorrow.

Those spruce (or whatever) longerons are a very beneficial improvement.   Mine were balsa and suffered some damage over the years, and of course, its very difficult to fix them without open fuselage surgery.   
I could do you a nice live video camera system specially designed to fit in the cockpit ........... PupCam

Keep up the good work.

Alan

I could do you a nice live video camera system specially designed to fit in the cockpit

Hi Alan,

Looks very imprresive, unfortunately I have already placed an order for scale cockpit interior complete with the WW1 Pilot, however I may be interested in one after the Pup.

I am hoping to build large Petrol Carden Yak (ARTF unfortunately)  so it should be a fun device for that?  What sort of cost are we taking about?

Alan

Ay up Alan, that rotary ain't so far away   

What sort of cost are we taking about?

How about £2000?    No, no, that's a joke.  I really haven't thought about it and as it's all my own work I haven't really got any idea.  I'll give it some thought and get back to you.

Alan

How about £2000? 

Hey that is cheap for people with money (I ain't one of them unfortunately) 

How about one of these to pop on the front Alan?......

How about one of these to pop on the front Alan?......

Many a true word ........

All these Alan's - it's starting to confusing

Alan

How about one of these to pop on the front Alan?......

nah, it don't spin around.....

Yes Alan, isn't it?

We could do with a few Reggies, Sids and Berts to avoid confusion.

nah, it don't spin around.....

nah, but some do .......

Yes Alan, isn't it?

We could do with a few Reggies, Sids and Berts to avoid confusion.

Anyone remember the Bruce sketch?

Alan

Well this one certainly did Stuey......

Well this one certainly did Stuey......

Is that the same as your first photo Brian?

No, not the same engine Stuey. These guys were at the OW Scale weekend a few weeks back. They're not there every year, but seemed to be out in force this time round. One of them had built a superb replica of a 24 cylinder Napier Dagger aero engine to about 1/4 scale. You can just see it in the background in one of the pics (fourth pic).

And here it is......

There used to be a chap who lived near me did something similar. Someone commisioned him to build a scale Rolls Royce Merlin engine. So he did, and made a superb job of it. Only cost the bloke who commisioned it about £30,000 too. (Gulp). He then went on to do a Daimler Benz 601 engine for the same guy. Jeez, it must be nice to have money.

a superb replica of a 24 cylinder Napier Dagger aero engine to about 1/4 scale.

It certainly is.    This website is worthy of a poke around for similar works of art.

Alan

Hi Alan

The engines by that Lee Hodgson chappie bear a remarkable similarity to the engine I photographed in the back of that estate car. Perhaps he's the same bloke?

Absolutely stunning model engineering.

How about one of these to pop on the front Alan?......

Now that is what I call an Engine, wouldn't want to put in a model, it will go in a glass showcase if I had it  To stop confusion I will call myself Alan H

Alan H

A Little more work done now that both the side fuselage sides are dry, fitted cowl blocks to the firewall and the ply surround which will support the cowl lip.

Al thought not in the instructions I added balsa gussets behind the firewall for added security as I will be using a Petrol engine.  I also prefer to glass cloth the firewall to the main frame.  the only thing that survives in a crash normally

At this stage before I glued the firewall to the fuselage sides I took the opportunity to mark out the shape of the firewall on a large sheet of lead (no doubt at all I will require a lot since it's such a short nose).

Good move with the gussets and the lead 

That kit looks a world away from the original that I had, in terms of parts fit/finish!

rgds,

Mike

That kit looks a world away from the original that I had, in terms of parts fit/finish!

Hi Mike,

Eddi Stocker and his Wife Judith have put in a lot of effort into improving the the original D B kit as most know it.  When I built the D B Spitfire (now also with split wings) some of the construction if not most was free hand only placed on the plan to square things up and weighted to cure.

Apart from that Eddie is a very helpful guy nothing is too much trouble, his re-engineered kits use some very unconventional but easy to do providing a strong and practical construction.

Alan H

Having built an original Moth 40 in 1990, and recently purchasing a new Tiger Moth kit from D B Sport & Scale, I can honestly say I was astonished at the leap in quality. Absolutely superb lazer cutting - even the wing struts - and to top it all off, you even get some wire to bind the undercarriage joints prior to soldering.  

I'm watching this build with great interest Alan. I've sort of had my eye on this kit for a year or two as a possible future home for my Laser 1.60v. Hopefully it shouldn't need quite as much lead on the front with that engine. I have considered the Mick Reeves version but I don't know anything about how it builds. Its also a lot more expensive than the DB one, although it will be more scale. Anyway, I just like DB kits and the way they go together.

I have considered the Mick Reeves version but I don't know anything about how it builds.

I don't have first hand experience of Mick Reeves kit, but one  or two people at local club have mentioned saying that the parts do not fit well and and one has to rectify things with minor surgery.

Alan H

It may be worth considering moving the lead further forward needing less to get the c of g correct.  I did it on my Pup (now deceased  ) thus



When the cowl is on the weight (yes I had to add 5Lb  ) can hardly be seen:

It may be worth considering moving the lead further forward needing less to get the c of g correct.  I did it on my Pup (now deceased  ) thus

(Attachment Link)

When the cowl is on the weight (yes I had to add 5Lb  ) can hardly be seen:

(Attachment Link)

Thank you for that I had considered a similar option, however I was keen to fit the Le Rohne Dummy cylinders in which case the idea of the lead weight further forward as you have kindly shown may not be possible.  5 lbs is a lot I had guessed around 3.5 lbs to 4 lbs, but hey I am yet to see a Pup that didn't have half the church roof bolted up front.

I will however review the idea when I have the dummy cylinders infront of me,  If the dummy cylinders are hollow then another option will be to fill them with lead shot somehow.

The dummy cylinders I was thinking of fitting is shown below:

Sorry if I missed it Alan H, what is your weapon of choice to make the whirly bit at the front go round?

Lectrickery?

Mud

Sorry if I missed it Alan H, what is your weapon of choice to make the whirly bit at the front go round?

Lectrickery?

Mud

I looked at various options, I looked at Laser 180, but lack of information (on their website) on dimensions put me off, I did email them and they did send me a photo of the engine with only one dimension with instructions to print out the image and work out the rest of the dimensions by scaling the existing dimension (a bit Micky Mouse I thought) .  I did work out some dimensions but there were other critical dimensions I couldn't work out from a 2D photo so they came off my short list.  Not very keen on oily messy glow engines anyway.

I also looked at RCV 120, but I suspect I would have cooling problems if I was to fit a dummy engine, due fact that the  RCV has cylinder in a horizontal plane and the crank case of dummy engine would blank off cool air flowing to the cylinders. RCV being a geared motor it had the potential to swing a very large prop too and the length was right too

I looked at Zenoah 26 but that meant modifications to move the engine back as the length is too long, in the end I decided I will go with M V V S 26 petrol beam mounted and the dimensions are just right.

Alan H


Alan H

I looked at Zenoah 26

An excellent engine for the Pup (if a little awkward to start occasionally!)

Mine was mounted on soft mounts although I wouldn't bother next time.



Make sure you keep the back end light a NFG?
 
Alan B     AKA PuplessCam

Make sure you keep the back end light a NFG?
 
Alan B     AKA PuplessCam

When I do my next one I will be sure to keep the calories down on the rear 

still can't see why all the lead is needed, on my old one just a Zenoah 38 strapped to the front and it balanced almost in the right place. Think a few ounces were needed. That's all.

still can't see why all the lead is needed, on my old one just a Zenoah 38 strapped to the front and it balanced almost in the right place. Think a few ounces were needed. That's all.

I don't know how much lead will be needed the preparations is simply forward thinking of possible need. This is a revamped kit so the chances are I will not require much,  I also believe Zenoah 38 is an overkill, I fly my Spitfire on that and that weighs 22+ lbs, the pup should come to 18 - 19 lbs.

Alan H