Topic: 1/2 scale Sopwith Triplane

Now I set up my top view and using my shelf brackets and some 1 x 2's I created my outside clamping blocks.

I then turned the longerons upside down since the top was totally flat for now until I add the formers in place, and then clamped them up against my outside blocks.
I then also used my cable clamps to make sure the top was setting totally flat on my board.
Note: You may notice the inside edge doesnt match my planset. That is because this is 1/2 scale it would normally be using 1/2" sq longerons. I decided to laminate these using the 1/8" basswood so am actually 3/8 by 1/2. I willdo smoke and mirrors to this in the cockpit area where it will be seen. If I was doing 3rd scale then 3 lamination of 1/8 x 3/8 would of course make it scale lookign.

In this next series I have jigged the fuse so it is nice and square and will not move around. I did this by using some 3/8 sq Poplar I had lying around that I got from lowes. I then cut a 45 degree angle on one end and nailed it with trim nails to the building board.
This makes it solid. I then clamped it to the opposite side. Then on the other side of the upright I repeated the process, but in the opposite direction creating an "X". I used a couple speed squares to ensure the sides were square.

So That is where I am at for now. I have to finish bracing the fuse and cut the cross members and will do that over the next couple days then will post some more pics.

Looking good Joe.     

The lamination method looks like its got some good points going for it and it's really coming on now you've started to jig it up.    That sharp curve in the lower longeron behind the cockpit makes me realize what a game I'm going to have forming my solid Cyparis longerons to the right shape!

Alan

its not as bad as it looks Alan. use the little finishing nails like I do and it makes everything so much easier. the only thing that will cause a problem is the length of your longeron sticks. they need to be far enough in front of and far enough behind that bend to stop any pressure on the longeron splice

Thought I would post a couple pics of the scale details I am working on while things dry. I will paint the control column aluminum when finished as I used the metyl weld epoxy and brass rather than alum. needless to say I think its turning out really good not to mention they are huge. the control column tube is 12 " long but I need to knock off 2 inches as scale it should only be 10" long.

You Can see my hand as size ref.

Hey Joe, I think I see how and why you got your tag "Professor Looney"!  You sure are thinking and doing "outside the box"......at least you are certainly outside my arena of thinking.  I am enjoying your build.....I have observed a lot of new techniques and
I am most certainly anxious to see the end product in the air!

Cheers,
Art Shelton

thanks art.

lot of guys have a good income and can come up with nice jigs etc to do stuff. I try to be the guy that shows those young modellers and old ones on a tight budget how you can do the same thing without the fancy gadgets.

I am a millwright so at work we always have to invent different ways to install a machine or align stuff etc. we cant just go down to the store and buy something. So I think some of that thinking is transferring to my model building )) at least people get to see different ways to achieve the same end results for various economies

BTW I should also mention the control yoke is 1/2" diam tubing

well I got the handle for the control yoke painted today. man these high def cameras really bring out every flaw and pinhole hehe. nice thing is  I still have to wrap it with cord and you cant really see a lot of the flaws that show up on the pics with the nekkid eye. I still will give it one more coat of paint once I attach it to the control column. I have some nice 1/8th and 1/16th inch domed rivets I got from  microfasteners to simulate the original attachment.

the paint I got from Dollar General and was really leery as most of these paints that say "Metallic" usually give really crappy results that doesnt look metallic at all. This stuff did a really good job and I will probably run down and grab a couple more cans while I can get it as every time you find something good they end up not carrying the Carp anymore just when you really need it. btw the paint color on the can said silver.

BTW I finished the crossmembers on the fuse but before I take it off the table I will be looking at possibly doing something with the tailpost while everything is sitting stable over the centerline

Well I started wrapping the control handle. I am using crafting Hemp to wrap it with. I have the sides finished but before I do the top I need to add the gun trigger post yet.

looking good though i still need to trim the hanging ends i am really happy with it

I should mention that the nice thing about the metyl weld is that it sands really easy. it is abt the consistancy of wood for sanding purposes, however the longer it sits the harder it gets so its best to sand it no earlier than 24 hrs after you put it on and no later than 48 hrs after or it gets harder to sand as it takes 48 hrs to fully cure. after 12 hrs you can usually take a xacto knife and carve it to pre finished shape. at 12 hrs it carves similar to soap.

well I got it finished and I am quite pleased. it took a while for me to come up with the tack for the trigger, then I remembered we had some of them flypaper strips in the cupboard so I grabbed one off there

well these pics arent the greatest as I didnt use my tripod, but here is the finished control yoke and the start of the rocker arm. the little part on the end of the rocker arm didnt turn out as well as I would have liked it to but it will be ok. I can always remake it later if i wish.

PS all these parts I am making I have drawn onto my plan set for those wanting to make their own. I dont have them all drawn yet but most of them are.

ok folks here are some pics of the beasties fuse. as you can see in the first picture after the scale was zeroed out with the cross support so it sits on the scale, the fuse only weighs 2 lbs 2 1/4 oz for this 8 ft long fuse

I threw the tail on temp will do more once I get my fuse parts in so I know exact locations. in mean time I will work on tailpost and the cockpit area where I need to set up the wing spars for joining the outer panel for the lower wing