Topic: Brio Repair

I have started a thread, more for questions than anything else
As some of you may know I had an unknown lock out and flyaway

the spars are good so I,m gonna try to repair myself

the biggest problem I have at the mo is the ballast tubes are damaged and to get to them I believe I need to remove the inner nose
how in the red place down stairs do I go about trying to remove the inner nose

Bummer about that crash, and the aftermath your'e now dealing with..

It may be of no help but this is what the inside of a Brio nose looks like. I think Sam had his sent in two pieces as he wanted a fat ballast tube in there. A single tube may be an easier option for you if you don't intend to use the tow hook.

Its in the section called "Brio #2 out of the box" about 3/4 of the way down.

Pilebuck's blog - RC Groups

lol the amazing 3000oz pike brio 

OMG you mean this one

I don't think this is gonna be easy 

lol the amazing 3000oz pike brio 

Hey, he builds specific planes for specific conditions. He has enough 'normal' F3Xs. To say the least.. where's that 'envy' emoticon gone?

And yeah Allen, that is a well made and deep joint you looking at moving, with a lot of gluing area.

my first choice would be as per isoar....ie open up the crack behind the wing saddle and do it from there

if that's not an option I think you'll have to saw the nose off

I was thinking about cutting with a dremel like in the pic then heating it up and using a razor saw/knife to try to work slowly round ?

If I open her up at the crack  I'm not sore I will get her straight again 

At least If I can get the inner nose out I can remove the ballast tubes, super glue the fuse, glass the inside then go to town on the out side with out risk of losing the shape

A different idea:
Cut the nose off halfway down the circular area the nose cone slides on to. Just like PaulW showed. Do your repairs. Glue the nose back on with  a thin inner glass support and then glue/expoxy the slip on nose cone on permanently after cuttting a canopy into it. That'd be rather strong on the joint.
You'd have to cut holes for the ballast and find a way to hold it in.

If I open her up at the crack  I'm not sore I will get her straight again 

Can you make up a Mr. Fu type fuse jig before you cut, this will help with getting things straight afterwards?

A different idea:
Cut the nose off halfway down the circular area the nose cone slides on to. Just like PaulW showed. Do your repairs. Glue the nose back on with  a thin inner glass support and then glue/expoxy the slip on nose cone on permanently after cuttting a canopy into it. That'd be rather strong on the joint.
You'd have to cut holes for the ballast and find a way to hold it in.

oh oh oh!! or even better, cut the nose cone short and use that off-cut as a sheath to bond the inner back on....it might just work, and you could still have the slip on nose cone

So your saying cut off say 1/2" ring off the end of the outer nose cone and use it to fix the cut I make??

So your saying cut off say 1/2" ring off the end of the outer nose cone and use it to fix the cut I make??

yup, but is there enough meat for it to work? might not be looking at the fotos...how does it 'feel in the flesh' as it were?

There is more than 2"maybe even 3" of outer nose over lap, I think it will work fine 

There is more than 2"maybe even 3" of outer nose over lap, I think it will work fine 

and still ok for ballast access?

and still ok for ballast access?

Will need to check when I'm home
Fuse is tucked away out of sight till I have done the wings.
No wings no plane!!
Would love to finish her off with mat black hammerite but that just ain't gonna work 

Anyone got some brio wing joiners laying around ? 

Joiners? no.
But if you intend to order from T9 I'll have a pair as well and a few spare ball links for the elevator 'rods to make it worth their while. Give me a shout if you want to do it.