Topic: Camel/direct driven ZG62

Hi Ralf, my DH2 had one of those on it for the first few years of use. Worked a treat

Ian.

Great news Ian, Thanks! 
Now, where can I find one soon 

Thanks, Ralf

Ralph, the only place i have seen them recently is from B&B Specialties HERE

Can Toni get one for you?

Steve

Ralph,

Why don't you buy an electric starter? It makes life so easy. 

Hi Steve,

I can't find it in the latest Toni Clark catalogue anymore, he did use to sell it.
Thanks for the B&B link 
But the first thing I'm gonna do is try a new spark plug, maybe that helps...  

Why don't you buy an electric starter? It makes life so easy.

Hi Steve H.,
If it wasn't for the dragging along of a 24V battery, I would have gotten one already 
I'll wait and see what the new spark plug brings, then I'll plan further 

Greetz, Ralf

Hi Steve,


Hi Steve H.,
If it wasn't for the dragging along of a 24V battery, I would have gotten one already  
I'll wait and see what the new spark plug brings, then I'll plan further  

Greetz, Ralf

Why do you need 24v?
The starter I'm using runs on 12v. It's based on a gear reduction car starter.
It also has a one-way clutch drive, so when the engine fires, it's not trying to spin the starter up.

Hello Steve,

Could you please place a picture of your starter here?
What is the reduction ratio?
Is it home-built or can it be bought complete somewhere?

(I've got a Sullivan 6:1 starter at 14,4V, but this doesn't get the Torquemaster round  )

Thanks, Ralf

Details

Here is a picture.
They are made by DS engines, who also make the 4-stroke petrol engines.
The number is 0044(0)1327 300528          

I think they cost around £130, but don't quote me on that.
Uses a standard car battery and will easily swing my 120cc 4-stroke at about 1000 rpm.

Steve

I was looking around for some small rivets to fit the ring to the front of the cowling.
Found the perfect size for the job - 2mm dia x 4mm long soft Aluminium with a round head.
Got these from 'All fix' which I believe is a national chain.

Details

Details

Made some progress, the cowling etc is finished and all the rigging wires are made.
The dreaded part of the build is rapidly approaching - spraying!

Steve looking great 

Those rivets are known as the finger biters, always wear a glove, as when you swing the prop and catch the rivits they tear your fingers up, ask me how I know  (even though Mr Redshaw had warned me)

Bled for ages

Steve

Thanks for the warning but I won't be hand starting

I'll be using the brilliant electric starter mentioned earlier in the thread.

Looks like my picture posting went a bit wrong, they're off to one side  

Thanks for the warning but I won't be hand starting

I'll be using the brilliant electric starter mentioned earlier in the thread.

Looks like my picture posting went a bit wrong, they're off to one side  

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Gerry

Hope you don't mind me putting my head round the door! I don't fly your big stuff but I love Camels and this thread is excellent.....Dbflyer

I'm trying to make my mind up whether I should add rib stitching and tape.
What do you guys think - waste of time, or a must do.

If I decide to do it, is there a quick and easy method? 

I'm trying to make my mind up whether I should add rib stitching and tape.

Absolutely! 

Methods - there are a number of ways that have been described by Sir Ian, Norfolk'n'Good and others.   Have a prowl round or, with a bit of luck, they will add a link to the relevant threads.  Ian's Camel thread or Shaun's current SE5A thread might be good starting points.

There's always functional rib stitching of course

Alan

Complete must have Steve

It makes a model so much more interesting to look at, its definately woth the extra effort

Ian.

Hi Steve,

It certainly isn't a waste of time on this model!
It's a lot of work but it'll be worth it!

You could fake it on the bottom of the wings with tape only, no knots, to save time, did this on my camel too 

Keep those piccys coming 

Ralf

I have tried all sorts of methods for fakeing rib stitching which caused this  After much fiddling about I use 5 cm wide double sided tape and nylon fishing line .
Stick the tape down sticky side up and put a ruler next to it ;put the fishing line across the tape at the appropriate spacing and trim to length. I use a glass sheet (old double glazing unit) to cut on. Wipe over the glass with a damp cloth then turn the tape over so the backing paper is upwards .The damp stops the tape sticking to the glass too tightly. I then clamp a straight edge along the tape using 2 clamps  with the required stitch width showing .Cut the tape off using a rotary cutter.(a scalpel displaces the fishing line) .You then have a strip of sticky tape with bits of nylon across the stick side and the backing paper still in place. Take a suitable length of solartex cut to the required width for the rib tape .Clamp it down adhesive side up and stick the fake stitching  strip down the middle of the rib tape, with the backing paper  on the double sided tape up . Remove the backing paper and stick the whole lot to the covered wing over the rib and give a rub down.Then use a hot covering iron to stick the rib tape down.

Alan

This is such a major feature and such a PITA but necessary in my opinion.  Sir Redshaw has told me how he did his i.e. as per full size  but I have had the devil of a job to get the tapes that go over the stitching to adhere close to the thread leaving more of a slight hill than a pronounced stitch position.  Perhaps it's because I'm impatient, Ian did say he carefully goes round each stitch with the iron then pushed gently down with a mit or cloth till it cools a little and so sticks.
Having only so much patience means I may be trying to colour PVA with paint and just doing a basic line where a stitch should be as it's a quick method to do but if the surface is scraped in any way the PVA shows through as clear hence the paint in it.  Maybe PVA then tape on top may work and as it's already a gentle contour the tape may be easier to stick down

Due to popular demand, the rib stitching is being added. 

Started painting.

Details

And here's a picture of the engine mounted in the plane.

Details

Steve, any chance of more details on the motor, dimensions etc. Just to gauge what sort of cowls it will fit into? Highest bit to crankshaft. Distance from this highest bit to a spinner backplate etc?? Overall length etc. Many thanks Some bigger pics would be great too 

Cheers, Ian.

Ian,

The engine measures 204mm from the back plate to the prop driver face.
165mm from the top of the rocker cover to the centre of the crankshaft.
210mm from the top of the rocker cover to the bottom of the crankcase.

Let me know if you want any more measurements.

As for bigger pictures - well, I wouldn't want you looking too closely.   

Steve

rib stitching for the impatient,

  this is how i do it, got it from a mag many years ago,  make yourself a jig that is a piece of board (mdf/chipboard WHY) as long as the chord of your wing, a bit longer actually 2" each end will do,  as wide as you want really i just made mine 500mm, along the edges that is your chord mark out the spacing for your rib tapes about 10 mm in from edge,  knock some sort of pins (long panel pins are best 30mm) at every division, cut your self a piece of solatex to fit the board, put it on board sticky side up, (after removing the film ) now take some embroidery thread (stolen from wife's sewing box) and weave it to and fro along the pins making nice parallel lines on top of tex, push down threads till they is snug against tex, paint the whole lot with balsa lock/watered down PVA whatever leave to dry, remove tex from board (just cut along side the pins with a craft knife) you now have a large sheet of rib tapes, cut into you desired widths with either a sharp craft knife and steel rule, or as i do use a roller paper cutter,!) 10 quid from ALDI years ago,  hey presto rib tapes with stitching, to apply tack one end at front of rib with iron, pull gently and align with rear tack with iron, gently warm (not to hot, with iron along tape following with cloth pressing down, the cover with a finishing tape the correct width for your scale. sounds complicated it really ain't, and once you,be made your boards you have them forever, i have them in 1/4 scale 1/3 scale and 1/5 somewhere, and if you go here you will find the correct spacing for your stitches,   


http://home.cablerocket.com/~scaleribstitch/

  products and services is the place


  Chris