[BrianB]

The r/c car blokes use them too.

Some of the boat car stuff is quite useful. I use r/c car rubber switch covers on my seaplanes. 

[vroooOOOM]

Cheers, i'll keep looking.

[JimG]

Try here

Astec Models

Jim

[RGN]

Wow that's a lot of research work, Mmmm maybe add to mine at a later date though. 

That's why I asked what you were aiming for I didn't want to sidetrack your thread if you were only aiming for sport scale! I have about 500 photos of ZS-OSS from pretty much every angle so if you need any please ask!

Richard

[RGN]

I'm having a look at the options for control set up, don't like the kit suggested method of a secondary link mechanism, I'm thinking of keeping it all on the main servo cross members, I can't see that this will alter the elevator control because I've looked at the recommended mount and its the same height only orientated vertically!! If I mount everything on the main servo cross members I have easy access should I need to adjust anything. I assume there’s enough room for the pilot seat because this is where the throttle and aileron servo are mounted in the plan.

Rudder (left servo) Elevator (Centre servo) Throttle (Right servo)

Thoughts?

You need the vertical secondary elevator bar! Without it your pull-pull wires won't exit in the right places (be sure to cross them - top to bottom). I moved my throttle servo and rudder servo right forward to help reduce the amount of nose weight needed - you may want to consider doing the same.

I also added a second servo to the elevator so have an element of redundancy there. All this in my thread photos if you want to check any details.

HTH

Richard

[vroooOOOM]

Thanks Richard, I have got a mass download of your gallery photos for reference, I'll leave the controls for now as I want to finish the front end, I'll probably go with the vertical option, I just thought it may be easier to access for adjustment.

Thanks again  W

[vroooOOOM]

Try here

Astec Models

Jim

NOPE NO LUCK.

[vroooOOOM]

Well I placed my order for Laser 180 last month, just phoned them for update on delivery and Geuse what? they're closing for a week ! that's what I call excellent customer service, so I'm now looking for another engine choice, Saito four stroke may be my next option.

[Martyn Griffin]

Well I placed my order for Laser 180 last month, just phoned them for update on delivery and Geuse what? they're closing for a week ! that's what I call excellent customer service, so I'm now looking for another engine choice, Saito four stroke may be my next option.

I wouldn't give up on the Laser. What you are getting is an engine built for you, when I received my Laser 80 it took me nearly 6 months to put it into a model because it was so nice to look at!

[fw190dora]

i've got a saito 220 looking for a home.......but i'd stay with the laser if it was me......stay cool man....

[Steve_r]

Laser every step of the way!

I'm sure you can understand they want some summer holidays?

You'll get nothing but the best customer service from Laser. You'll get an engine that will easily out live the life of the model, and the next model and the next! If you have the misfortune to prang the model and damage the engine, I'll put money on Laser being able to repair in no time flat and with a far more reasonable bill than most other makes of engine! (seeing as they are made from solid they are about as strong as engines can be made, I'll very surprised if you can inflict anything other than superficial damage!)

 

[Gordon W]

Well I placed my order for Laser 180 last month, just phoned them for update on delivery and Geuse what? they're closing for a week ! that's what I call excellent customer service, so I'm now looking for another engine choice, Saito four stroke may be my next option.

I'm in the process of switching back to wet power after 14 years of solely electric flying, and have bought a Saito FG-36 36cc petrol 4-stroke.  Super engine, though its's only had an hour or so on the bench and proved how cheap even petrol 4-strokes are compared with enough 10S-12s lipos for a decent day's flying.  Additionally, I've finally got fed up of every flight on electric power being different because of differing battery deterioration rates, whereas a tank of the wet stuff gives the same power and duration every flight.  A clubmate has the FG-30cc petrol and that flies his 92.5in span Ryan ARTF (Black Horse kit perhaps) with plenty of oomph.

In the 14 years since I sold my Laser 75, I note that they've done nothing to stop oil leaking from every joint, judging by the several Lasers in our club.  My Saito is the first of that make I've owned, and it's as oil-tight as my four Enya 4-strokes were back in the '80s and '90s, meaning that the petrol Saito-powered Jungmeister I'm building won't need much more cleaning than if it was electric powered, as I originally set out designing it to be.

Go Saito petrol!!

Gordon

[alanh]

Stick with the laser .I have four laser 150,s and a 200 twin. I also have a couple of  saito 180's. Both makes are good but I prefer the lasers. They are easer to operate and more robust. I have flown a flair tiggy on a laser 150 which was well powered; the 180 will be even better.

Alan

[steamysheep]

I recently bought a P38 Lightning with two Saitos on board. In over 100 flights it has never deadsticked... 

[BrianB]

I'd wait for the Laser Vrooooom.  What's a couple of weeks until it finally arrives? The model won't be ready for the engine for a while yet, so I wouldn't fret.

I have both Lasers and Saito four strokes, but the Laser definately has that certain "something". The lineararity of the throttle response is like no other engine, and they just don't seem to wear out. Right now, the Laser has a big price advantage as well. Probably something in the order of £150 I'd say.

Sure, the Laser might seep a little oil, but that certainly doesn't worry me personally. Anyway, in the words of a wartime B17 ground crewman "if there aint no oil on it, there aint no oil in it".

[RGN]

Never had a Laser so can't comment on them but have owned (and still own every one I've ever had ) plenty of Saitos - from .30 to 1.80 and I don't think I've ever had a deadstick with any of them.

With a bit of care with the exhaust and the crank breather you can lead most of the oil away from the airframe. My Midget Mustang (Saito .91) doesn't usually need a clean after flying, for example.

Oh, the Saito 180 goes into the Tiggie quite well (I've recently done it).

Richard

[steamysheep]

) plenty of Saitos - from .30 to 1.80 and I don't think I've ever had a deadstick with any of them.
=

That reminds me of my longest ever flight of 54 minutes one summer evening with an old RCMW model biplane "Bimbo". The Saito 45 was between idle and quarter throttle  for the whole flight, only landed in the end coz the light was fading and I needed a pee...

[CF-FZG]

The Saito 45 was between toclover and quarter flight for the whole flight, only landed in the end coz the light was fading and I needed a pee...

Stuey, can you translate the highlighted bit from Norfolkese into English please

[steamysheep]

Stuey, can you translate the highlighted bit from Norfolkese into English please

Edited.... 

[vroooOOOM]

Another bit done.

[vroooOOOM]

NOPE NO LUCK.

Well I found these but I think they'r too small at the one end, on with the search.


rubber bellows for sealing linkages from radio boxes and rudder linkages on the transom in all types of model boats.  35mm long, 15mm dia with 9.5mm bore at one end and 1.5mm at the other end.

[vroooOOOM]

Still waiting for my Laser 180, should be here tomorrow, in the meantime I've been doing work on other bits so not to worry.

[vroooOOOM]

Well I've been really busy, finally got my Laser 180 so I been building the front end, Glad I waited for the Laser as I decided to mount the fuel tank at its lowest point which was exactly centre to the carb, also keeps the centre of gravity lower down.

I purchased a bench belt sander for shaping the engine mounting blocks and this made the job really easy.

Going to be busy for the next few weeks so may be some time before next update.

[vroooOOOM]

I've been looking at the wheels and would like to fit some more softer baloon type ones, anyone know of any?

Cheers

[vroooOOOM]

Well I managed to put a couple of hours in today and was looking st the engine mounting, there ant a lot of meat left on the bearers after I resized them, well waht I mean is there's only about 5mm between the mounting bolt centrs and the edge of the bearers.
Has anyone else who's built this kit had any problems with this???

[vroooOOOM]

Well I've done some more, fitted engine, cowl, fuel tank and wheels.
I replaced the lower fuselage front laminations with Bass wood as the laminations of balsa were too soft in this area and easily marked by the lower cowl section, I don't have t worry too much about weight in this area as I anticipate adding a little lead when finished to get the CG correct.
You can see from the photo how much the fuel tank has been lowered, basically I used the optional litply tank holders supplied and set then tight up to the bottom of the engine beam mounting holes in the formers.

[vroooOOOM]

Well I'm at the point of assembling the carbane struts to the upper wing centre section (FUEL TANK).
I have a problem as I can't see how its possible to solder the carbane struts when they butt up against the ribs any heat applied in this area would result in damage to the structure, I have seen on other tiggie builds where they tinny the metal rods first, not familiar with this process, Mmmm yep I need HELP.
anyone

[RGN]

To tin:
1. clean the ends well - I use steel wool (not stainless steel wool)
2. apply some flux (I get it from B&Q as used by gas fitters)
3. apply heat and 'tin' by applying solder to get a good coverage of solder on the areas to join (use lead based solder if you can get it)
4. Join as normal (or bind with fuse wire and then solder in this case)

Yes, you probably will damage the wood sides when you solder - I did even though I added a metal heat shield but it didn't seem to make any real difference! You may be able to reduce the collateral damage by using a soldering mat (again as used by gas fitters).

HTH

Richard

[vroooOOOM]

Yes, you probably will damage the wood sides when you solder - I did even though I added a metal heat shield but it didn't seem to make any real difference! You may be able to reduce the collateral damage by using a soldering mat (again as used by gas fitters).

HTH

Richard
[/quote]
OK I see what you mean, initially getting the metal struts soldered up with a layer of solder so that when I then bind them together there will be less area to heat up to get the solder to take to all that metal, one question more, should I use a soldering iron or flame?
Cheers vroooOOOM
Edited. incorrect smelling

[RGN]

Yup, you've got it! Iron or flame? I tried an iron but my 50W one was not up to the job so ended up using a small gas blowtorch. Worked well but the wood got a bit scorched.

Richard

[vroooOOOM]

OK thanks Richard, I'll post some pics once I've completed this stage.

[half throttle]

I soldered the wires before fitting the wooden bits.

I just cut a V-shaped slot and slid them on afterwards.

[half throttle]

It's a nice build, isn't it? 

BTW I (and am sure many others) have found the supplied wheels perfectly suitable when used with the sprung and damped U/C.

Also I wouldn't worry at all about how much extra weight you put up front. 

Paul

[vroooOOOM]

It's a nice build, isn't it? 

BTW I (and am sure many others) have found the supplied wheels perfectly suitable when used with the sprung and damped U/C.

Also I wouldn't worry at all about how much extra weight you put up front. 

Paul

Thanks for that, yes I didn't give any thought to the extra weight as I know it'll need a little bit of gods roof (lead) to balance the CG.
Cheers.

[vroooOOOM]

Well Thank you all for your help, I have now progressed to having fitted the upper wing centre section this evening, I did think about soldering up the struts first before fitting the ribs but found it fiddly (great word) so went with Richards advice, first tinned the struts and then bound them, I then (see photo) shielded as much as possible from the torch flame and then fluxed first then applied heat and run the solder in I also made sure I had covered the fuselage with damp cloth, once I had done the front struts the rear ones were straight fowards as I was able to raise the whole of the rib section after aligning the rear struts up and simply run solder in the bindings, a word on safety always have a fire extinguisher handy or a bucket of water with wet cloth at the ready.

Thanks again everyone I'll post more photos as and when I have a chance to get some more work done.

Cheers for now vroooOOOM

[vroooOOOM]

Also fitted an on board glow plug igniter, this thing is brilliant, you can set the glow plug to on, adjustable across the throttle range, bought mine from S&M Services UK.
I was also told not to bother buying a glow clip as they break or fall off so asked around and someone suggested that I take a small collet and drill out to size of glow plug top, solder the live wire on and tighten the grub screw up and hey presto.

Looks good to me.
 

[vroooOOOM]

Made up the Carbane strut braces ready to fit later.

[vroooOOOM]

Dont want to wander off the topic too much but I went out flying my Spit today.
Here's  a photo I thought I'd share with everone.

[Skyleader]

Don't worry about it .I have several Lasers (addiction I think!!) all have the tank too high .The only problem I have  is fuel Pi@@ing out of the carb  if left with the throttle open on the ground. The engines run fine .I also have a 4 stroke type  perry pump which I don't bother with now .It defiantly cuts off the fuel supply when the engine is stopped. IMHO they are an unnecessary complication. All I do is close the throttle on the TX trim after a flight, to stop the fuel leaking out of the carb

Alan

Subscribed.

[vroooOOOM]

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