Topic: Balsa USA Morane A1 1/3 scale build

I thought it was about time to get started properly, the building board has been in place since just before Gaydon, with the wing plan laid out.

I am just waiting of a visit from Sir Ian of the Red (or 'will o wisp' to his friends, amongst other names). We are planning to make some changes to the plans, with a view to making the access hatch on the top front decking, including the c/section struttery to lower the height for transport, also to make the tail surfaces removable so it would go easily between car seats etc.

Any way that is still in discussion,

Subscribed Matey 

Is it done yet 

YAY..... watching here in Nuffuck

Started work on the wings.

First was the task on preparing the centre ribs, these consist of 4 in total each made from ply and balsa laminated together.

Next comes the task of constructing the 2 wing spars, these are each made from 2 strips of balsa to form a 3/8 x 1" forward spar and 2 pieces to form  a 3/8 x 3/4 rear spar.

This is where I hit my first problem, some of the wood for the rear spar was bowed tried, to staighten but it did not work, so will have to get in touch with slec to order some replacment wood, local shop only seem to stock 3' lengths and I need 4'.

At least I can work on one wing until the wood arrives.

Some photos to follow once I start laying the pieces out on the plan.

Subscribed to this one.

Simon

Subscribed 

Steve

Order placed with SLEC for balsa to replace rear wing spar. postage twice the price of the wood

Anyway, had a vist from Sir Ian last to discuss the build and look at the possible changes.(many thanks)  

Lots of ideas and changes are being considered and going to be made to the model.

Firstly the aileron setup on the kit is being changed, currently it is top hinged. looking at more of a middle hinge.

Started the build on the first wings with a majority of the ribs being fixed in place. Centre ribs just need to be drilled with a small guide and then I can fix then in place.

The great thing is, after the drive home from Manchester each day, it nice to just spend a hour, balsa bashing. I think I forgot what it was like to relax  

have you test flown it yet

have you test flown it yet

Not yet I can not find  the choke on the engine 

Should say thanks to Stueysheep, the kit arrived with no instructions and Stuey was a life saver, he came up with a set. 

Contacted BUSA and never got a reply.

Should say thanks to Stueysheep, the kit arrived with no instructions and Stuey was a life saver, he came up with a set. 

Contacted BUSA and never got a reply.

you are very welcome. 

More work done on the 1st wing. awaiting delivery from Slec, so I can start on the aileron.

It is starting to resemble a wing 

Lookin nice and tidy John 

Hi CubanFlyer,

Subscribe to this thread too... I've just receive the first part of this kit (wheels, BUSA machine guns and this huge cowl....).

No more progress? Have you choose your colour scheme?

Christophe

What with work and Christmas, I have not been spending as much time on this as I would like.

Received the wheels and guns from Mick Reeves this week, ordered Monday afternoon arrived Wednesday, excellent sevice, saves me pinching out of the Camel kit for the time being.

Well the first wing frame is looking good with the first of the modifications to the kit.

The first mod is the hinge for the ailerons, on the kit they are top hinged, but on the real thing it is a centre hinge, so I have dropped the top hinge and I am moving towards a centre hinge.

The second mod at this stage is the wing tips, in the kit the section at the tip is completely flat. After speaking with Ian Redshaw it was decided to change this section and introduce a shape change. As the kit wing section does not have a lot of undercamber if any, it would improve its appearance with this change.

Well after 3 attempts to get an acceptable shape I was happy. This was built up using laminated balsa and made wide enough to cut the tips for both sides, this ensured I had the same profile on both wings.

Looking great John, that tip mod will help to hide the thick wing section

Ian.

Hi John,
Nice profile for the end of your wings.
An idea how operating the ailerons?
Servos in the wing, with the problems of discretion of wire, or an operation as on the real plane, with tubes  coming from the fuse?
Christophe

An idea how operating the ailerons?
Servos in the wing, with the problems of discretion of wire, or an operation as on the real plane, with tubes  coming from the fuse?
Christophe

Hi Christophe

We looked at controlling the ailerons from the fuz and also the option of moving the servos in the wing towards the struts. If they are moved there, the push rods would be hidden slightly amongst the struts.

When it came to the wing tips. I tried to use the sections supplied, cutting slots in them to assist making the curve easier. Basically the first attempt was not shaped enough.

With the 2nd attempt the tip curve still was not enough and I managed to twist the wood while the glue was setting.

Basically, I then decided to make them using laminated balsa.
Balsa USA made a c*ck up when they cut the wing ribs and have included a 2nd set. They basically forgot to cut the slot for the rear spar, in the 1st set. I used a couple of these to create the template for the wing tips.

I doubled 2 of them up to create a thicker spar, and then marked the shape I required, following the top profile of the wing. I then cut the bottom off following the shape I required.

It was decided that it was best at this stage to create the tip wide enough to make both sides. The  lamination's  were the built up using the rib as the template. Most of the lamination's were made with the grain running length ways of the tips, but I did use 1 with the grain running at 90 degrees. Once released from the template the profile was cut into 2 ready for fitting.

The final shape and profile will follow later.

I doubled 2 of them up to create a thicker spar, and then marked the shape I required, following the top profile of the wing. I then cut the bottom off following the shape I required.

It was decided that it was best at this stage to create the tip wide enough to make both sides. The  lamination's  were the built up using the rib as the template. Most of the lamination's were made with the grain running length ways of the tips, but I did use 1 with the grain running at 90 degrees. Once released from the template the profile was cut into 2 ready for fitting.

I was trying to get my head round how to do the tips on my SE5a and the double curve was troubling me.  You have explained it very nicely and made it so obvious how to do it cheers 

I was trying to get my head round how to do the tips on my SE5a and the double curve was troubling me.  You have explained it very nicely and made it so obvious how to do it cheers 

I think the trick is to get enough lamination's in so they hold the shape.
I used 2 different thickness of balsa so I could get the number of lamination's I required. I used 5 layers in totals 3*1/16"  &  2*1/8". At the rear end I staggered the ends to reduced the amount of shaping required, as shown in the photo.

We looked at controlling the ailerons from the fuz and also the option of moving the servos in the wing towards the struts. If they are moved there, the push rods would be hidden slightly amongst the struts.

Just an idea if you put the servos in the wing, to hide the control horn. I've done it on my 1/4 Nieuport 17 and that works very well.
Christophe

Just an idea if you put the servos in the wing, to hide the control horn. I've done it on my 1/4 Nieuport 17 and that works very well.
Christophe

What servos did you used? jsut thinking about the torque

only two Hitec 475 HB...

John, have you an idea of what engine you will use, and the amount of lead necessary in the nose ...?

John, have you an idea of what engine you will use, and the amount of lead necessary in the nose ...?

Looking at using Z62 direct drive, as to the amount lead, I will not know unitl it is completed.

Stueysheep may be able to give an idea on the lead, he used to have one of these with a Z62, if I remember correctly.

John,

I used the system described earlier in this thread on my 1/3 SE5e elevators with the servo arm levering the control surface .  I am using Hitec 645MG servos.  Instead of sliding the rod thru the quik connect, the servo end of the rod is fixed and slides in a carbon fibre tube in the elevator.  It works pretty well but I found that the hinges have to be mounted close to the rod and mounted in something pretty solid because they are  the fulcrum point and all the force is applied there.

Phil

I used the system described earlier in this thread on my 1/3 SE5e elevators with the servo arm levering the control surface . 

That looks very nice Phil (welcome to the forum by the way).

Any chance of a thread  (build or otherwise) with some more photographs.   There are many here that would be very interested to see them, myself included.

Alan

That looks very nice Phil (welcome to the forum by the way).

Any chance of a thread  (build or otherwise) with some more photographs.   There are many here that would be very interested to see them, myself included.

Alan

2nd that 

Hi Phil

What size push rod are you using, I would think it needs to be at least 3mm.

What is the opening like in the trailing edge for the push rod?

I would be interested in more pictures if you can arrange it.

cheers
John

3mm is the good size for that.
Here's an example of the openning TE you need...

http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9087&PN=3&TPN=17

Hope that could help...!
Christophe

Alan,

I am not much of a thread builder but I have sort of started one on RCSB. You might want to take a look there.  I am not shure I want to try to maintain a thread both here and there.

http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15629&PN=1

Phil

I am not much of a thread builder but I have sort of starteds one RCSB. You might want to take a look there. 

http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15629&PN=1

Excellent, thanks Phil.  Just had a look, very interesting thread and nice work.

I am not shure I want to try to maintain a thread both here and there.

No, that's fine - as long they are somewhere! 

I've been contemplating the steel bracketry for my Triplane.  How did you cut out the ones shown on your thread (they look so neat and consistent - please don't say you fretted them out  ).  Anyone know who does laser cutting of small jobs for not a lot?

Alan

 

Alan

The process is quite time consuming but being a retired person......

I am working from Replicraft plans with actual measurements called out in inches, so getting the correct sizing is just a matter of 1/3. The only accurate parts of the shapes I need to follow are those that will show after covering, thereby allowing me to adapt the final shape to the model's framework.

As for producing the fittings, I first make a cardstock pattern and transfer it to the mild steel sheeting I use. Then with the aid of tin shears, nibbling tool, drills, grinder, a miniature sheet metal brake I made, and some brazing, I can produce fairly acceptable fittings without too many rejects.

The universal forked ends and clevis were turned on my trusty Smithy Lathe/Mill.

Phil


 

i've asked some of my friends to make me a Christmas present....
here 's the order détail....

Merry Christmas.
Christophe

Sorry Phil, I've only just spotted your reply, thanks for that. 

As for producing the fittings, I first make a cardstock pattern and transfer it to the mild steel sheeting I use. Then with the aid of tin shears, nibbling tool, drills, grinder, a miniature sheet metal brake I made, and some brazing, I can produce fairly acceptable fittings without too many rejects.

That was what I was afraid of.   I've got that list of tools (although I bought rather than made my sheet metal brake) but the thought of handcrafting all that bracketry is slightly depressing.   I was thinking more along the lines of doing an accurate CAD drawing and finding someone with a laser cutter    

Alan

No more progress John ??
I'm hanging on, on what you will do for your ailerons before starting my wings.....
I've received for Christmas some interesting details....

No more progress John ??

Been quiet on the building front.
Just prior to Christmas we had a major server go down at work, spent a few long days and nights having to rebuild it ready for our year end, Then to top it all, I have had the lurgy over christmas, did not feel like doing anything.

Anyway just starting on the second wing, and plan to get it to the same stage as first and then I will decide on the Ailerons.

After a busy couple of months at work, (I thought the slave trade had been abolished), I have been able to get some more work done on the Morane.
Need to play catchup on the toy front, because work are sending me to Ireland shorlty for a couple of weeks (I wonder if I can put building materials etc in car  , mind you I do not think the hotel would be happy with balsa dust everywhere ), more time lost.

Enough about work.

I now have 2 wings at the same stage.

Had a bit of fun with the second one. I had heard rumours that there was an issue with the left wing, so checked it and and they were correct. The left wing on the plan is slightly bigger than the right. Only 1cm, not a large amount but there we are. So ending up building it on the right plan.

Next is to fix all the ply mounting plates to the wings ready for the strut mounting.

I have still not decide on the aileron hinging method to use yet.

The big problem coming up is the fuz, my building board is to short  , need beg steal or borrow another, as a short term solution.

The big problem coming up is the fuz, my building board is to short  , need beg steal or borrow another, as a short term solution.

whip off the lounge door, 

whip off the lounge door, 

No good all the doors are 6 panel, otherwise you never know it a possability  . Maybe a visit ot B&Q to see if the have any rejects (doors that is) going cheap.