Topic: Clives Strutter Build

Thanks Steve, that's really useful particularly as it has the dimensions on it . Now I just need to find a photo of the fuel cocks (bottom right on the panel) I think an internet image search should find one.

Clive

I think I will stop commenting as all I can say is wow and that gets boring to read 

Such an interesting build - eagerly awaiting your next post 

I spent today sorting out the ignition / magneto switches. I looked around my local dolls house emporium thinking that they might do something suitable but no luck so I decided to have a go at making them . It took me nearly all day but I think I've managed to get something that will do.

The first stage was to make the switch body by turning down some brass bar to the correct OD and then shape the front using some images that I got of the web as reference. Once I'd done that I made the switch lever in much the same way.

I then drilled the body at the correct angle to take the lever.

Next on the agenda was to make the ceramic mounting block. I made this from dowel and painted it white as per full size. To be honest these still need some more work, I need to sand them down some more and repaint them so they have a smoother finish.

Clive

Very nice switches I wish I could be bothered to do cockpit stuff 

As an alternative could you turn up a piece of white hard nylon like nylatron for the ceramic bit it would save painting 

Now that's a very good idea, and I've got some in stock

Thanks  Shaun

Clive

Cracking job Clive

Ian.

OK, I need some advice / help as I've hit a bit of a brick wall

I decided to move on to fitting F5 and detail and fit the instrument panel which butts up to F5.

Heres the section of the plan showing F5 and the instrument panel.

Sorry boys; joined this one late. Is it a  kit, plan , self build or  ?

Hi 'Skyleader' and welcome,

It's a Mick Reeves 1/4.5 kit with a Laser V200 to spin the finger chopper on the front .

Clive

OK, as I said in my post yesterday, I wasn't happy with the white mounting block, so taking Shauns advice I re did them using engineering Nylon, turned them up on the lathe and now I'm happy with the result.

Clive

 

They look the business.................... made any spares? 

Made a couple of switches for my 1/3 pup the other day .I was pleased with them till I looked at yours
Alan

OK, just as I finished the switches the door bell went and the postman delivered my replacement drill bit. So, I was able to continue making the larger bezels.

I managed to drill out the centre (that's what I needed the 22mm bit for), I had to do this very slowly as my lathe is quite small for a drill bit of this size. I then turned the small rim in the centre and then parted them of to the correct depth. I managed to get two of the three done before my good lady came home to find no tea on the table. I need to do the third one tomorrow and then drill the holes for the mounting screws and then trial fit them.

Clive

Hi Shaun,

I haven't made any spares but if you want one and don't mind waiting till I can get to it send me a PM with size etc. and I'll see what I can do.

Clive

Hi Shaun,

I haven't made any spares but if you want one and don't mind waiting till I can get to it send me a PM with size etc. and I'll see what I can do.

Clive

Very kind Clive I was just kidding.  I'm making up some non scale but looks like they could have been in a WW1 aircraft type dials 

You have enough to do without outside work to 

I didn't get to much done today as I had some family chores to attend to but here's what I did.

First I made the third large bezel, then mounted them all complete with dial faces on the temporary panel with the glazing.


Clive

Next to do was to make and fit the Air Release Valve.

I did this by turning some small diameter aluminium bar, drilled out the centre, profiled the front edge, turned down some engineering nylon to fit the hole, drilled a 2mm hole in the centre of the nylon to take the knob, made the knob from very small diameter aluminium bar and attached it to the nylon then drilled the three holes for the fixing screws and countersunk them. Phew

It took about three hours and this is the end product, I must say it turned out better than I expected .

Clive

Please don't think I am nitpicking, the instruments and switches look fantastic, but is there any chance you can find some straight slot screws? I doubt that cross heads would have been on the original.

I was thinking the same thing. 
I am trying to make a panel for my 1/4 scale Pup and am looking for some miniscule slot head screws. Does anyone know of a possible source?
Tentpeg. 

I was thinking the same thing. 
I am trying to make a panel for my 1/4 scale Pup and am looking for some miniscule slot head screws. Does anyone know of a possible source?
Tentpeg. 

If you are going to use Ali as a bezel or painted tree you could simulate screws with a piece of pipe to punch a ring then use a small screwdriver to punch a slot that's what I was thinking of doing on my SE5a (but probably wont) and just glue them on rather than actually screwing.

I was thinking the same thing. 
I am trying to make a panel for my 1/4 scale Pup and am looking for some miniscule slot head screws. Does anyone know of a possible source?
Tentpeg. 

You could try Modelfixings. They do some 1.6mm slotted pan head SS machine screws and 2.2mm pan head self tappers.


  Tom

Thanks Tom, I'll have a look because I don't think the cross heads or Phillips were invented when the Pup was made and straight slotted heads would look more convincing.
Regards,
Tentpeg. 

Hi all,

Re screw heads, the point regarding cross heads not being available when the Strutter was built I believe to be correct Though I'd be happy to hear otherwise.

However, I can't find any slot head screws or machine screws that have a 1mm shaft diameter and less than 2mm heads
(I've tried Model Fixings and lots of others but no joy).

If the heads are bigger than 2mm then you have to make the rim of the bezel larger and the proportions then look all wrong. So, as I'm not building the Strutter to enter the Nationals (just some club comps plus for my own pleasure) I've gone with Micks 000 screws which are correct for size but not for design.

I could have simulated some slot heads but decided I'm happy with where it's at. Although if I wake up at 3am shouting I've just got to go with slot heads (might make my wife smile) then I'll re do them.

Thanks to all for the feedback, and if anyone knows of a supplier of very small slot heads to the dimensions I mentioned above please let me know.

Clive

Shaun, I forgot to mention in my last post that that idea for simulating slot heads is great and I'll file it away for the next one I build , as I've drilled the bezels for the 000 screws I wont use it on this one

Clive.

1mm slotted brass m/c screws from Austrilia, about 37p each : http://www.smallparts.com.au/store/partslist/screwsmachinebrasscountersunkhead/fasteners/all/1/1mm%28M1x0.25%29/


   Tom

I buy 10 or 12 BA counter sunk set screws from any model engineering supplier .I put them into a predrilled hole with a spot of thick cyno . I don't use this for applications under load of course.

Alan

The Australian distributor would be a bit expensive, I think.
It seems that Clive has used thirty something screws so far and I roughly calculate that 40 of his slotted screws would be about £15 plus postage!
Is the diameter of the 10BA going to be small enough for the bezel, Alan?
Tentpeg. 

Would these be what your after http://www.newstarfastenings.com/product.php?id=1204625427

Their catalogue is 5 1/2 years out of date    Shame they don't put prices on the net you have to mail them on an enquiry form 

OK next instalment.

I didn't get much time in the shop this weekend (chores to be done ).

I decided that the next job to tackle is the compass housing.

I confess I haven't been looking forward to this as the shape of the main housing is a difficult shape to turn up, at least for me as I haven't touched a lathe since leaving school 40 years ago! until I got my current lathe two years ago (very steep learning curve). Still if you don't try etc.

The first part I tackled was the main housing, I turned down a piece of bar stock to the correct O/D and the cut lots of reducing diameter steps to start to form the rear curve. Once I'd completed this I then took very light cuts to remove the shoulders from the steps the used a fine file to get a smooth finish the used 1200 wet and dry to polish is. I then reversed it in the chuck and drilled out the centre with a 12mm bit, then parted it of.

This is what I ended up with

The Next job was to turn up the circular back plate that mounts it all to the panel.

Clive

Then I turned up the front rim. This will screw to the front of the main housing trapping the glazing in between.

Clive

That looks fantastic Clive.  Where did you get your dimensions from or are you guessing as I have been with most things 

I fear mine will be a lump of balsa with a picture glued on the front but at least as you are doing it will be my own work 

Hi Shaun,

I'm getting my dimensions from two sources.

On the plan that Mick supplies there is a general arrangement drawing of the panel. This doesn't give dimensions but its not to difficult to work out with a pair of dividers.

The second source is from a layout drawing which Steve very kindly posted on this thread, its about halfway down page three. This gives very specific layout dimensions and then the rest is a bit of "joining the dots" and guess work along with the good old mark 1 eyeball using a photograph I found on the web (photo attached).

Clive

Final bit of work for today.

Started making the fixing brackets that fix the main body of the compass to the mounting ring behind.

I am only approximating the full size version with these as by the time they are mounted in place and painted they will "look the part" if not exact scale replicas.

I have also drilled and fitted the front rim to the main body.

Clive

Very useful photographs of the compass from Clive and Shaun, thanks

EIleens Emporium is a source of a wide range of useful materials etc.   Generally aimed at the model railway market but then again nuts and bolts and telescopic brass tube sections have a variety of applications .......    I have no connection with them other than they are invited to the model railway exhibition I assist in the planing and organistion of.   If only I'd spotted this earlier I could have looked on their stand - the exhibition was this weekend.

They used to do BA screws down to something like 24BA IIRC although the website only shows larger BA and Metrics but might be worth a phone call or Email

http://www.eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&category_id=250&page=shop.browse&Itemid=9&limit=20&limitstart=0

By the way, the very small BA threads used to get more expensive as they got smaller but if you need micro nuts and bolts thats the price you have to pay I suppose.  How on earth they were made I don't know!

Alan

WOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!

Alan, that is one very useful site. Many Thanks

Clive

Liking the 'Extreme Products' range 

Mud 

Liking the 'Extreme Products' range 

The pack of Weekend Passes looks extremely useful

Alan

Hi all,

I'm currently struggling with the fixing of the compass body to its circular mount. My first idea was a disaster and would of broken the first time it got touched (which with my large, clumsy hands wouldn't take long ).

The Mk2 design will be tested today and hopefully work .

I'll post some pics once I've cracked it.

Clive

Once fitted Clive you wont be knocking it though so I would have thought it does not have to be bullet proof