Topic: Top Flite P51 Mustang Build

Hi All,

As in the title and as decided on my Chipmunk thread, this is going to be a build assembly thread for my newly acquired Top Flite P51.

Since my Galaxy Mustang buried itself on its first outing last year    I have wanted a big petrol warbird and the chance arose whereby I could get this one, and here it is.

I am slaving over a hot lathe at the moment, all in the name of scale fidelity for a fellow forumite, Ok, for Mudders' Camel, but assuming I can get the Camel bits finished this week, I will make a start on this lot at the same time.







There is a lot of it. However, the previous owner had started it and the wing is joined, flaps ailerons, servos and bits in, but the retracts need a bit of work and I want to work out how to strengthen the retract bearers without going ove rthe top. I'm sure they are up to the job, but they haven't experienced a Charlie C type landing before 

I have never had a model before that warranted a wing bag, but I have a really nice model and a big posh wing bag, things are looking up in CC land.



Thats your lot for now.

Back soon.

Charlie C

I'll be watching CC. Nice model. What size engine is that? Very posh wing bag too 

Iain

I'll be watching CC. Nice model. What size engine is that? Very posh wing bag too 

Iain

Sorry, I should have also mentioned.

Motive power is by Zenoah 88, (Anyone got a spare silencer they want to sell)

Electrikery is two 3300 6V cells running a nice new Spektrum 9100 powersafe reciever, and the dangly bits at the bottom of the wing and at the back are supplied by Robart.

I am hoping to weather it a bit, but other that that it will stay as per the intstructions.

I don't think it needs playing around with, I have seen Pylons flying enough to know its a good un.

Charlie C

Sorry, I should have also mentioned.

Motive power is by Zenoah 88, (Anyone got a spare silencer they want to sell)

Two Fat Ladies --- 88? 

OOooooo Shiney 

Now get back to the lathe 

I flew one of these during my trip over to Colorado last year Charlie.......DA50 up front but at 6,000ft altitude, it needed it.......38 will be ideal down where we are.

Wise move to look at the retract mounts.........the reason I flew it was as a thank you because I spent a day repairing the retract mounts for the owner after a ground loop on landing ripped one side out completely.........lack of glue was the main issue....plenty of thin CA wicked in should soon sort that.

Phil

That G38 mount looks like it's for use with a reduction drive and is that a pulley I see on the rear output shaft?    for better luck than the last one fella.

i'll be checking in Charlie.........great to see you have started a thread.....all i have to do now is get mine out and start it! well carry on from where i left off........amonst other things.... ........keep it coming......looking forward to the weathering stage.......

cheers

Dave

That G38 mount looks like it's for use with a reduction drive and is that a pulley I see on the rear output shaft?    for better luck than the last one fella.

Blimy Shaun's got eyes like a sh(eye)t  hawk 

Alan

Subscribed - looking forward to this one, Charlie!

Richard

Just finished my GS P51 which flies nicely on a DLE55.  But then this is a kit and came out at 26Ilb.  I guess the ARTF will be somewhat lighter.

that's nice sticky.........nice job!

Thanks.  My biggest build to date.  It's glassed, panel lined, rivotted etc.  I really went to town on it.  It's not perfect but I'm pleased with it.

never knock yourself down sticky....if it's your first big build...pat yourself on the back for a fine job.....go and enjoy it now.......have fun.....

Just finished my GS P51 which flies nicely on a DLE55.  But then this is a kit and came out at 26Ilb.  I guess the ARTF will be somewhat lighter.

Noice work 

Mud

Blimey,

I didn't think an ARTF would generate much interest, how wrong can you be.

Nice looking P51 Stickey 

Having been out helping Mr Sheep with his newly acquired P47 today, I really need to crack on and get this one done. Can't have that Jug lolloping about on its own 

Work is getting in the way this week but I hope to get some time in later in the week and thereafter.

Retracts will be the first job, plus loads of thin cyno on all the joints in the airframe.

Thanks all.

Charlie C

Ps, NFG, there is nothing wrong with your eyes, is there.

Charlie, that post on what a weathered H9 P47 could look like, see this thread post 482...

http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php/topic,58210.480.html

Great looking play charlie, wishI had one.....

Great looking play charlie, wishI had one.....

Thanks Jason,

I'm glad I took that very long drive 

Charlie C

Don't do too good a job or i'll be making a long drive myself 

Don't do too good a job or i'll be making a long drive myself 

I'll give you my post code if you want.

Its in Scotland 

You haven't come accross any wayward bits by any chance.

Charlie C

I have found one bit, a small farring for the underside of the cowl. PM me your address and i will send it to you.
Had a brief look at the chipmunk you told me about, looking really good. Can't wait to see some pics of the 51 flying.

j

Spent a bit of time doing usefull stuff today, i.e. building the P51.

Had a few issues trying to set the flaps and ailerons up, but all sorted now and working in the correct order and fashion.

Not much to see here. The only change I have made from the instructions is to use M3 rods, clevises and lock nuts. I would usually sleeve the rods in carbon/Gorilla glue, but these are nice and short so theres no real need.



Having removed the retracts, I found the mountings to be errrrr, not the best in the world, (As previously mentioned by the previous owner  )

I have applied a liberal dosage of thin cyno to everything I can reach in that area, and, for peace of mind I have also put a layer of light glass cloth under the blocks and onto the ribs hoping to spread the load a bit further.
I have done this as there seems to be a few gaps in and around the mountings so hopefully all will be OK.
Even with my landings 



One slight issue is with the Spektrum 9100 Powersafe. I seem to remember that when you plug the batteries in, you get one blue power light per pack, illuminated in the receiver.
The one I am fitting is new out of the box today, and although works perfectly, only one blue light is on. To check, I fully charged both 6v  3300 mha packs and swapped them around with the same result.
can anyone confirm that there are supposed to be two blue lights please.

Cheers

Charlie C

I'm only a bit jealous, honest 

(don't forget the clevis keepers  )

Noice work.

Muds

Oh very nice been toying on this one for a while now but also got my eye on the YT 109 due out later this year so will be watching this with great interest.

lozza

The wing is finished and gear tested, works perfectly and no air leaks either 

No piccies just yet, maybe tomorrow evening.

For all you experienced builders, a question, again.

The manual shows furry mylar hinges for the rudder and elevators and indeed the slots are already cut.
Is it wise to use them ona model of this size 

I have always used Robart pin hinges in these circustances before and would not have even thought of mylar.

Your opinions would be most recieved most gratefully.

Cheers

Charlie C

One slight issue is with the Spektrum 9100 Powersafe. I seem to remember that when you plug the batteries in, you get one blue power light per pack, illuminated in the receiver.
The one I am fitting is new out of the box today, and although works perfectly, only one blue light is on. To check, I fully charged both 6v  3300 mha packs and swapped them around with the same result.
can anyone confirm that there are supposed to be two blue lights please.

To quote the manual 

"it’s normal for only one blue LED (Batt 1 or Batt 2) to be on when the system is not
under a heavy current load depending on which pack is providing more power".

Steve

furry mylar.... That's what I have on the Greenley with a Z62 up front......

Agree....the furry hinges are fine as long as they are well bonded in........do yourself a test sample........bond one into a block of balsa then try and rip it out with pliers....you'll have a hard time.

No problem with the furry ones. They were on the Boomer XL that I flew a few years ago. Stress tested to the max with no issues

Steve

IIRC - the blue light illuminates on the rx corresponding to the battery that is the primary power supply. If it runs low it will switch to the other and the light will move. It usually corresponds to which ever pack you connected first (assuming a fresh charged pair).

If that's anything like the Quest battery backer I just dug out of my stuff it says to test:

Turn on TX
Turn on primary battery switch green light should illuminate
Turn on secondary pack switch (no other lights should show)
Turn off primary pack green light should go off and red illuminate showing secondary pack is being used.
System reset by switching off both packs then to start up again primary 1st th3en secondary just the green light should be showing.

Thanks all for the Spektrum answers. Its boogerd and will be going back this week.
With two fully charged packs connected both lights should be on.
Ahhh well, after the escapades with my last P51 chances are not for taking, so off it goes.

In the meantime, I have been busy. The tailplane is now fitted. I'm leaving it overnight to go off fully as knowing my luck, I'll fiddle with someting else and knock it about.

I was surprised at the amount of free play in the slot and the subsequent mucking about to get it aligned properly, however all is now well.
I actually followed the instructions to the letter instead of my usual just go ahead and stuff it in rountine and it worked.

Cover one side in flim:

Set airframe up with wings on to use as alignment method

Slop loads of epoxy around in the hole, insert tailplane and line up using a cord (fishing line) pinned to the top centre of the fuselage and marked with segregations to ensure a square fit:

Make sure it all lines up before the epoxy goes off: (It is straight, the photo is off centre  )


Go do something else and LEAVE WELL ALONE until epoxy has gone off


OK, the last bit was my own rule and not in the manual.

All being well, tomorrow evening will be rear end flappy bits and servos 

TTFN

Charlie C

More progress.

The flappy rear end bits have been fitted and servo's installed.





Although the rear servo bay looks huge, it doesn't take a lot to fill it up.

I decided to throw away the plastic clevises as I don't think they are fit for service on a model this size. However, trying to get metal clevises to fit the supplied rods has been a non starter. I have however found some ball links that fit but I am slightly concerned about the fit of these, so once everyting is set up and ready to be locked in position I will wick some thin cyno into them, unless anyone can point me in the direction of something more suitable.

I have also trimmed and started painting the cockpit interior:



Now here's a problem:

The pilot: Do I fit a WW2 type chappy, or should I fit a modern display type chappy.

At the same time, do I try and weather the airframe as per WW2 or just keep the surface matted back but clean as per the current aircraft.

What to do 

Any ideas 

Charlie C

I reckon the thread is a 4-40 Mr C

I'd keep the airframe 'as is' meself, then, after a few hundred flights, when she needs a make over, give it the biggy 

And a WW2 pilot 

coming on Charlie.......... ......must get mine out of the loft..........cockpit interior looks great

Cheers guys.

Been giving these elevator ball links some thought. I'm not convinced that the fit is as good as it should be.

I am thinking that I may replace them with M3 threaded steel rod. I know its not the ideal rod to have inside the plastic guides, but at least I would then know that the end fittings were spot on.

What do we think

Charlie C

PS, Jason, the fairing has turned up  many thanks. CC

If you have a local Great Planes stockist, they'll have the correct 4-40 size ball links you'll need.

If you want to change the lot, I'd use piano wire instead of threaded rod (threaded rod can be quite sharp an constant backwards/forwards movement may start to wear the inside of the plastic guide tubes), then solder on M3 extenders to be able to use M3 clevises or ball links.

Yayyyy,

Sussed it.

Stueysheep let me into his garage this morning and we had a forage through his parts bins.

Guess what, he only had two proper threaded TF M3 clevises that are now fitted to the P51.

Cheers Mr Sheep  .

Made progress on the tailwheel today, hopefully it will be finished tomorrow evening  then we are into motive power.

Charlie C

Stueysheep let me into his garage this morning and we had a forage through his parts bins.

Guess what, he only had two proper threaded TF M3 clevises that are now fitted to the P51.

Cheers Mr Sheep  .

... and thank you for the ladders and cement.....

 I can feel jug and 'stang at march'o'clock....