[Wiz]

Once I had got the engine installed, I could then tweak the cowl a wee bit more to get the right lines after sheeting, I hope!



...and then it was time for "Boat building for beginners" with my new best friend Mr Ali Phatic



I'm very pleased with how this is looking.  It's the first time I've used the planking technique where previously I've always sheeted and struggled to get the lines right.  I worked out that if I used planks 42" long, 20mm at one end and 9mm at the other it should all work out splendidly, I found though that after laying the first plank, it was easier if I used 10mm and 4.5mm - means more planks but I actually find it quite therapeutic to do.

It seems I'm now a planker

[snoopy2]

wiz your build is going well seems a while ago now for me but my typhoon is now
finished so best of luck with yours here is a finish pictue of it and i have the history of the aircraft and the
pilot that flew in it cheers tommy

[Michael_Rolls]

The Tiffie really is a brutal looking aeroplane, isn't it?
Mike

[Pup Cam]

The Tiffie really is a brutal looking aeroplane, isn't it?
Mike

Really business like I think Mike in a similar way to the Beaufighter.   They just look like they are not to be messed with!

Alan

[Michael_Rolls]

Really business like I think Mike in a similar way to the Beaufighter.   They just look like they are not to be messed with!

Alan

Absolutely
Mike

[Wiz]

That looks really good Tommy and I see you have one of Wendy's "Perfect Pilots" in the office (http://www.perfect-pilots.co.uk/). 

Can you tell us a bit more about your 'phoon Tommy?  Like what radio gear and servos you've used.  I've been thinking ahead (again!) to hinging - I think Stuey has top-hinged his ailerons and, although it's not my preferred method, I can see why it's an attractive option due to the aileron differential requirement and the reduced gap on the top surface.  The jury's still out as to which way to go on that one.  Any hints and tips from your build gratefully received!

Yes Mike it is a brute and I think that's absolutely the right word for it in all respects.  I think it's that brutishness that drew me to it and I must confess, I never really appreciated what a significant aircraft the Typhoon was.  I remember as a kid, the Airfix box-art capturing my imagination ...



...but it wasn't until I started researching the pilots and aircraft that I realised just what an vital part it played after D-Day and the push into the Rhineland.

[Kit Willis]

Here's a tip for you Wiz, when hinging the flaps, do it on the underside   

[Wiz]

Here's a tip for you Wiz, when hinging the flaps, do it on the underside

Yeah thanks Chris

[snoopy2]

Wiz my typhoon has 6020 spectrum servos on the flaps ,rudder and elevator and 3010 futaba servos
on the ailerons and standard on the retract and engine also a ar7000 spectum receiver ,
made the tail wheel with some treaded rod and a brass bracket which is connected to the rudder with springs to steer ,the exhaust is made from some s/steel which my mate done for me .
Covering is glass cloth and pond sealer and painted with flair paint ,the hinges are all flat hinges and the ailerons are hinged at the top as per plans and its over all weight is just under 35lbs if you want to know anything please ask 

[Wiz]

Thanks Tommy, when's yours going to fly or has it already?

One thing I'm not clear about is now I'm going to control the rudder (ok, ok from the rudder servo before anyone says it ) what I mean is, what sort of horns do I use and do I (can I) keep the linkage internal (can't see how?) .... any advice gratefully received.

TIA

[Bonzey]

Nigel, I made up my horns from fibre glass sheet. the horn was passed through a slot  in the base of the rudder and opperated by closed loop. The horn does not have to be that big, about 1/2 either side will be plenty to get the control that is needed.
BTW, my nxt Tiffie is on the bench and I am catching you fast!

Bonzey

[Wiz]

BTW, my nxt Tiffie is on the bench and I am catching you fast!

Why am I not surprised?  Actually I'm surprised it's not flown already!  Just remember - hare and tortoise

By the way Bonzey did you get my PM re Alan and tail-wheel?

[snoopy2]

Wiz my rudder is worked on a closed loop which came as a kit from my
model shop ,the horns are attached to to some threaded rod and glued into the rudder
with some balsa block and with some washers and nuts to hold in place but it along the same lines as
bonzey .
Just a question bonzey is your spit a kit o scratch build ?

[Bonzey]

Why am I not surprised?  Actually I'm surprised it's not flown already!  Just remember - hare and tortoise

By the way Bonzey did you get my PM re Alan and tail-wheel?

Thanks Nigel, tail wheel unit is in the post I beleive.

Bonzey

[Bonzey]

Wiz my rudder is worked on a closed loop which came as a kit from my
model shop ,the horns are attached to to some threaded rod and glued into the rudder
with some balsa block and with some washers and nuts to hold in place but it along the same lines as
bonzey .
Just a question bonzey is your spit a kit o scratch build ?

.
The Spit is a full composite kit by Mike Booth/Flying Legends

Bonzey

[Wiz]

MY UNITRACTS ARRIVED TODAY

[steamysheep]

MY UNITRACTS ARRIVED TODAY

Noooooooooo, youll be romping awat now then.... 

[steamysheep]

just had a good read Wiz.... Got some tips thanks 

[steamysheep]

Wix, your tail wheel, how far does it dangle down when retracted?

[Wiz]

Just been out and had a measure - it's approx 2.5" from the bottom of F11 to the axle.  You'll see from the previous pic's I had to round-off the corners of the unit to blend with F11.  I gauged the height by what looked "right" and to make sure the rudder cleared the ground when retracted.  I must admit though, this was a bit trial and error.  I hadn't got the find/rudder made when I fitted the tail wheel but as you have, you might want to tape it up and check you have enough clearance?

[steamysheep]

just off to listen the purercradio in the garage and have a final measure up....

My Fin block is about 1/4" to thick which means I may have to lower the fin/rudder as well....

[Wiz]

Fin block?

[steamysheep]

Fin block?

At the base of the fin, behind the stab...


Just had a disaster, whilst jigging up the fus for the heights I slipped and dropped the fus from the bench onto the floor... Sprung all the formers from F6 backwards...........

[steamysheep]

Fin block?

sorry fin seat, picture 39 in the manual...

Gorilla glue is now pulling the sides back together

[Wiz]

Oh Stuey, that's gut wrenching isn't it.  Not quite so bad but I've lost count how many times I replaced sections of the logerons until I got planked that is.  Good luck!

[steamysheep]

Just passing through to see if there is any balsa dust in the air or the sweet smell of Gorilla in the afternoon.. 

[Wiz]

I have a bunch of pictures to upload Stuey - I've been busy fitting the retracts and lining the wheel wells and alas having to do some real work 

[steamysheep]

I have a bunch of pictures to upload Stuey - I've been busy fitting the retracts and lining the wheel wells and alas having to do some real work 

oooo, can't wait........ Real work..... darn gets in the way don'tit 

[steamysheep]

Wiz, have you sorted an air reservoir yet...... Been looking at PTFE bottles but not sure of the capacity to go for. 

[Mudders]

Wiz, have you sorted an air reservoir yet...... Been looking at PTFE bottles but not sure of the capacity to go for. 

What's wrong with a robart cylinder 

Mud 

[steamysheep]

What's wrong with a robart cylinder 

Mud 

don't know really Muds. Unitract recommend a PTFE drinks bottle... 

[Wiz]

I know a lot of people use them but I'm not a fan of PTFE bottles but I do happen to have a spare Robart cylinder, thank goodness, have you seen the price of 'em recently?

In terms of capacity, I look at it this way, I would top up the air before each flight anyway.

[Wiz]

Progress has been a bit slow recently but I've been spending a bit of time getting the retracts fitted and the wheel wells lined.  Still not quite finished that job.

Lots of pictures here.  It's important to get the retract units sitting absolutely flush with the bearers so as not to but undue stress on them when screwed down.  I need to use some small shims to get that absolutely right before epoxying the rails in-place.



Then once happy with the positioning.  I lined the base of the wheel well with 3mm balsa.  I had to take out quite a bit more foam to get the retracts to "sit down" properly; so much so that I was a bit concerned that I was going to puncture the wing skin.  I think it's important to note that the wheel well lining IS structural and therefore it's worth taking the time to get a strong, gap-free fit all round.

I started by glueing 3 pieces of 3mm balsa sheet together (from my balsa box) and then made a paper template of the shape required before transferring to the sheet, cutting out and glueing in with Gorilla glue.  I guess that due to flexing of the blade when I was cutting out originally, the base of the wheel wells were a bit over-sized (sides not square with the base) so I fitted some blocks around the edges as required so that the walls would be square.  This was then a "two glue process" using aliphatic to glue the walls to the base and utilising the gap filling properties of Gorilla around the top and against the foam.  I did this to avoid having to cut-out "Gorilla oooze" at the base, if that makes sense?



The walls themselves are from the same "sheet" as the base - I bent these to shape, pinned them in place, wetted them and left them overnight before glueing, just to make it easier.



So that's it.  Walls in and I have to say, a really good fit.  Just a bit of trimming to do now and then box-in around the bearers.

Onwards and sideways

[steamysheep]

Any thoughts Wiz on where you are running your retract air presssure lines? 

[Wiz]

Ah yes, excellent question! NO lol

I was thinking, if you look at the scale detail of the wheel wells, I can camouflage one of the airlines as one of the "hydraulic pipes".  Also note the shaped "ribs" at the bottom of the wheel well in the scale detail.  I'm going to add these shaped around the wheel for a bit of added strength because I feel that even with a 3mm balsa base to the well, it would still be all too easy to put my fingers through it when handing the wing (I know just how clumsy I can be!).

[Wiz]

Well it's been really slow going but the Tiffie is back on the bench and I'm off and running again. All sorts of reasons for the lack of progress which are not modelling related but the lining of the wheel wells, and more so the boxing-in of the bearers became a real chore. However, progress is being made ...



It's also a bit sad that my running mate, Stuey, has thrown in the towel but his Typhoon is now in the capable hands of rcfanuk (Steve) so I'm hoping we see some progress there too!


Sent from my iPad with Tapatalk HD using my fingers.

[rcfanuk]

It's also a bit sad that my running mate, Stuey, has thrown in the towel but his Typhoon is now in the capable hands of rcfanuk (Steve) so I'm hoping we see some progress there too!

Wiz, once I pick it up at the Nationals we will get it on the bench, until then keep up the good work 

Steve

[Wiz]

See you at the Nat's then Steve - we can inspect Stuey's handiwork

....I've made good progress.  After taking 10 months to do one wheel well, the other took about 4 hours.  Now I'm almost ready to go to the next stage which I think will be either back to the fuselage to finish planking the bottom half or joining the outer wing panels to the centre section.  Either way, it'll be a step closer to it looking like a proper 'plane!

[rcfanuk]

See you at the Nat's then Steve - we can inspect Stuey's handiwork

Will do mate 

Steve

[steamysheep]

See you at the Nat's then Steve - we can inspect Stuey's handiwork

O gawd..............