Topic: Best layout for modelling workshop?

I'm putting the final touches on my new modelling shed / workshop so started thinking about how to lay out the work surfaces / building boards / tools (scroll saw, bandsaw etc.) and storage so wondered what you all find works well.

The internal dimensions are 2.1 x 5.3 metres but SWMBO has booked one end for her pilot manufacturing so I have about 2.1 x 4 metres to work with and was considering fixed work surfaces on two walls (L-shape on the right hand end) with storage under and a loose building table (with screw jack levelling feet) so I can use it at the other end or free standing to work all around a model. I also planned storage above the work surfaces but high enough not to interfere with the band saw etc.

I will add good lights and lots of power sockets as I know you can never have enough of either!

What have you found works well? Photos etc. would be very welcome

Thanks!

Richard

What have you found works well? Photos etc. would be very welcome

Doh! You've built it in completely the wrong place. That should be in my back garden!

In my limited experience, what you often need is a drawer or something that you can use to clear everything off the work top so you have a large clear flat surface again.

No input on the layout but I would suggest thinking about security, grills on windows etc as sheds are pretty vunerable. Also check if you are coverered on your normal house insurance

If you can, you want a bench you can walk around! Nothing worse than trying to turn a fuselage around in a confined space just to put in a screw or something. Even 400mm will be enough.

[snip]In my limited experience, what you often need is a drawer or something that you can use to clear everything off the work top so you have a large clear flat surface again.

Excellent idea. Thanks

No input on the layout but I would suggest thinking about security, grills on windows etc as sheds are pretty vunerable. Also check if you are coverered on your normal house insurance

The windows are toughened glass double-glazed units and I intend to add reflective safety film and will consider bars as well. The tip about checking insurance is great and I'll do this. Thanks

If you can, you want a bench you can walk around! Nothing worse than trying to turn a fuselage around in a confined space just to put in a screw or something. Even 400mm will be enough.

Thanks, Bob. That's what I was planning with the loose unit that can be moved to wherever is convenient. Certainly will make it easier to work both sides of the fuselage.

Thanks again, all

Richard

PDR's is a pretty much perfect example of a modeller's workshop. Ask him if he'll throw a pic up for you.

Thanks again, all

Oh, and you need it to be a lot bigger.

Whatever size it is now... 

I don't know how you can combine the two; but as well as having a building board/table you can walk around, what about it being hinged so it can hang down/up vertical so you can sweep underneath it more easily?


And despite what Yoyo said, it should be in my garden.

Thanks, Guys.

After three years in the planning and waiting for our property purchase to go through it's staying in my garden, so it's not moving

Interesting idea on the sweeping, Steve. Perhaps I could do something like that

Richard

Dont forget that, no matter how big the bench, you will only ever work on one bit- the infamous two square foot rule! All the rest will be clutter. (or is that just me?)

No, it isn't just you - I do it too! I will have to try to be more tidy from now on, though, as SWMBO has a share of the workshop!

Richard

PDR's is a pretty much perfect example of a modeller's workshop. Ask him if he'll throw a pic up for you.

ROFLMAO! I'll see if I can find that pic as an illustration.

But on a real "do as I say, not as I do" kick, my ideal workshop layout (which I have never achieved) has a largish central work table that I can walk around all sides of. Thinks like the compressor are underneath it, as are flat shelves for storing wood, foam etc. Then all the walls are lined with bench areas that are 18-24" deep with vices (metalworking area), a lined brazing area, the bandsaw, drill press, lathe, mill, grinder etc etc. Part of this is set aside as an electronics area (soldering area, shelves for scopes/PSU/sig-gen/pulse-gen etc) and another part is set aside as a battery-charging area (with a fire-proofed surface and an enclosable cover for batteries under charge). The walls themselves are split between tool racks, shelves and a few cupboards, with bulky items being stored in under-bench cupboards and racks. Power points are in strategic parts of the wall and also run across the ceiling to an overhead (possibly even suspended) power point cluster over the central work table for solarfilming irons, heat guns, the foam-cutting bow and the second dremel. Similarly an air pipe is led somewhere where it won't get walked on to the brazing area and thence on to the lathe/mill area. Standard-sized swingbins (without the lid) are located at each end of the central table where they can be reached easily from all work positions.

The idea is that you have an area for the major assembly work (the central work table), with seperate areas for making parts (the side benches) so that the central area doesn't get contaminated with swarf etc, and so that you vcan make parts at the side benches without having to keep moving stuff on and off the main work table.

Background lighting from copious striplights is augmented with movable bench lights in all side bench and machine tool areas and spotlights over the work table - all lights have individual switches so you can turn on the ones you need rather than burning out the national grid every time you go into the workshop. There also needs to be a high shelf containing a CD player and a radio with the tuning dial welded to Radio 4 (obviously).

Another useful touch is a "circular" curtain rail which allows weighted plastic curtains (cheap shower curtains are good) to be run around the central work table so that it can become a spraybooth without risking overspray onto the side benches. Oh yes, and ashtrays in every work position to keep it tidy.

If you can find an old stainless sink/drainer unit and have the ability to plumb in both water and drainage this can be a REAL boon for grubby work. I have seen people do this by digging a soakaway and simply having a standard hoze connection to run from an outside tap, although finding standard hoze connections that don't drip is difficult. Also some kitchen/bathroom tuype extractor fans can be a good idea for some types of work, so you can ventillate the place without having an open window (which attracts wasps and maybugs).

The final touch is the sign over the door, in my case provided by a previous girfriend who would send me out to the workshop whenever we'd "had words", which reads "Chez Chein (the doghouse)". When my now wife came on the scene she approved of the sign, and was forced to accept a similar sign on the door of the music room (she is a semi-professional choral singer as her hobby, so we have a room dedicated to the piano, guitars and other assorted musical stuff) which reads "Chez Chat (The cathouse)".

I was getting close to this nirvana of a workshop when unfortunately we had to move to accomodate these "children" things, and I've never got even close to it since...

PDR

ROFLMAO! I'll see if I can find that pic as an illustration.

Only a curtain round the bench for a spray booth? Not a positive pressure cleanroom?

And where do you put the engine run bay? And the windtunnel?

Only a curtain round the bench for a spray booth? Not a positive pressure cleanroom?

And where do you put the engine run bay? And the windtunnel?

As he said, it was on the cards but the offspring stole the money; He tried raising the funding by selling some of the servants; but the idea of not being waited on horrified him more than the prospect of not having a half decent workshop. Rumour has it that his application to the CAA ensuring only he be allowed to fly anywhere within a ten mile radius of his chosen flying field was rejected.. he still smarts over that, so best not bring it up..

I answered the question that was asked - obviously the gliderist element regard that as unacceptable behaviour.

I'm getting tired of this - second time in a matter of days that posts of mine have been targetted by you mental defectives. I suggest you stick to roasting travellers or whatever it is that you have to do to maintain your self esteem.

PDR

I answered the question that was asked - obviously the gliderist element regard that as unacceptable behaviour.

I'm getting tired of this - second time in a matter of days that posts of mine have been targetted by you mental defectives. I suggest you stick to roasting travellers or whatever it is that you have to do to maintain your self esteem.

PDR

Wow, somebody's tired.

To go back on topic... The working space is 2.1x4m. I'd think that 2.1 (7')  is the marginal bit, although obviously it can't be changed now. Depends what you build of course, but manoeuvring a large wing or fuse in there could be tricky - I'd concentrate on keeping the short dimension fairly clear, at least for a fair distance above the work surface, no shelves round all three sides to close it in and give obstacles to ding things on.

I have recently fitted a wall rack system I got from Aldi/Lidl ages ago above my workbench. Quite useful to have oft-used tools and glues, tapes, misc screws etc all in easy reach. It's one of those with plastic
'bins' that unclip so you can have things right at hand when needed.

It's a bit garish though - looks like a primary school in there...

I answered the question that was asked - obviously the gliderist element regard that as unacceptable behaviour.

I'm getting tired of this - second time in a matter of days that posts of mine have been targetted by you mental defectives. I suggest you stick to roasting travellers or whatever it is that you have to do to maintain your self esteem.

PDR

no, dont roast them, the smell is unbearable.
And what sort of workshop does not have a replicator?

Really getting inferiority tugs now; as I build on top of a bit of ply, covering the Rose Wood dining table 

Really getting inferiority tugs now; as I build on top of a bit of ply, covering the Rose Wood dining table 

Dont worry about it.

At home i build on the dining room table aswell. 

Really getting inferiority tugs now; as I build on top of a bit of ply, covering the Rose Wood dining table 

Nothing wrong with that - I've done it for years. The worst part was having to clean up every night when I was finished. Some nights I I'm sure I spent longer preparing and packing away afterwards than actually building!

It's just that I now have an opportunity to make myself comfortable when building - and not have to tidy up to eat dinner!

Richard

Wow, somebody's tired.

To go back on topic... The working space is 2.1x4m. I'd think that 2.1 (7')  is the marginal bit, although obviously it can't be changed now. Depends what you build of course, but manoeuvring a large wing or fuse in there could be tricky - I'd concentrate on keeping the short dimension fairly clear, at least for a fair distance above the work surface, no shelves round all three sides to close it in and give obstacles to ding things on.

I have recently fitted a wall rack system I got from Aldi/Lidl ages ago above my workbench. Quite useful to have oft-used tools and glues, tapes, misc screws etc all in easy reach. It's one of those with plastic
'bins' that unclip so you can have things right at hand when needed.

It's a bit garish though - looks like a primary school in there...

I agree that the 2.1m dimension is not ideal but it was dictated by the location. Any wider and the building would not have been possible at all.I'll just have to be careful moving long items but can always open the doors for extra space.

I like the idea of the bins - added to the list, thanks

Peter, your ideas seem to correspond well with what I want to do but I won't be brazing etc. in there. Being a wooden building I'd rather do that elsewhere.

Richard

Nothing wrong with that - I've done it for years.

Yes there is you end up with food stains on your models.

J

Yes there is you end up with food stains on your models.

J

In my case its usually blood stains.

M

Mine is in a standard sized garage- about 24'x10".

I have a full length bench on one side with kitchen cupboards above and below it. On the opposite wall are racks for the models. There are also models hanging from the ceiling.

At the end is another bench. A short one this time- about 5' long and much higher up. It's only higher because it had to accomodate the lawnmower before the new shed was built. This has a small, portable table router underneath it And on top has the linisher and scroll saw.

In the middle of the room is a 78"x30" building bench- a fire door on top of a sturdy table.

There is a consumer unit and ring main installed with 10 double sockets on it. The other day I improved the lighting so I now have 3x6' strip lights and one bulkhead light illuminating my bodging. It's quite a relief to finally be able to see what I'm doing!

Oh, and clutter- lots and lots of clutter.

Next step is to fix the garage door so it doesn't get windy inside and to stop the damp creeping in. It has a one inch gap around parts of it and the gales that come off the Irish Sea just a few hundred yards away easily blast their way into there.

Next step is to fix the garage door so it doesn't get windy inside and to stop the damp creeping in.

Sounds good. I'm working on getting my garage into that sort of state. First thing is to fit a back door so I can fix the main door closed and weathertight from inside. The problem round here is not the wind getting in, but scumbags.

Doesn't happen often, but it only has to happen once...

I have to use the garage door as the main airframe extraction method as the back door is surrounded by stuff that practically ensures hangar rash if used. It's quite difficult to get a 91" Ugly Stik through a standard width door!

Could you not make yourself a bulding table on the model of an ironing board Richard(Although obviously sturdier) which can be folded away when not in use,you can make it in whatever dimensions and height suit you and your workshop,probably cost less than a tenner.
John

The 3 things needed to qualify any space as a workshop is a kettle and a t!tty calender from the local motorfactor/ haulage company that is at least 5 years out of date and a totally knackered armchair.. Heaven.

Don't forget the fridge. 

As I said above, this was a "do as I say, not what I do" thing. This is what my current workshop looked like at its peak of mayhem a couple of years ago:



PDR

Thats my boy, classic stuff PDR, a place for everything and everything in it's place.

J

The place for everything was the garage, so everything was in its place...

PDR

Build your worktop on cabinets but put them on castors. That way they can store against the wall but pull out as required giving loads of walk around space. Get the type that have brakes to stop it moving.

Gerry

Tut, tut Pete.What an example,the ash tray needs emptying

Build your worktop on cabinets but put them on castors. That way they can store against the wall but pull out as required giving loads of walk around space. Get the type that have brakes to stop it moving.

Gerry

Thanks, Gerry, an excellent tip

Could you not make yourself a bulding table on the model of an ironing board Richard(Although obviously sturdier) which can be folded away when not in use,you can make it in whatever dimensions and height suit you and your workshop,probably cost less than a tenner.
John

Another excellent idea - thanks, John

Richard
Richard

As I said above, this was a "do as I say, not what I do" thing. This is what my current workshop looked like at its peak of mayhem a couple of years ago:

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

PDR

I don't feel too bad now, thanks  .........................

I have recently converted the end of my garage into a workshop and found that 'slat wall' used for fitting out shops is an excellent tool rack/wall mounted storage system - I used the 3" spacing and it works very well, there are lots of accessories, euro hooks, shelf brackets, parts bins so you can store tools put up shelves and even make wing racks - and you can move it all around when you change your mind!

Ben

I've been hard at work on my shed for the past few weeks so thought I'd give an update.

Although I've not finished the main items are in place - lights and power are in (but I need more plugs!). I've cabled it with CAT5 cable so it is connected to my home LAN and WLAN so I'll be able to follow RCMF from a laptop while working. I have added two radiators to the home central heating system and have a zone valve and programmable thermostat controlling the temperature in the shed. It works very well and the insulation means it maintains its temperature better than I expected.


This photo shows SWMBO's work area where she makes and paints her pilots. The draws contain the casting resins and paints. The white unit is temporarily stored there before use elsewhere. My main workbench is on the right.


This one shows the other end of the shed. The double door to the right and the workbench on the left. This is on castors to allow me to move it to the centre of the room to work all around a model and is 1900 x 620mm. It is made from 18mm ply screwed down to 4 100mm high strips of 18mm ply that should help it stay flat. I still have to add some screw levelling feet to ensure I can get it and keep it level - and reduce still further any chance of it warping.

The red and black things at the end are storage cases that slot into frame to form draws to contain all my small bits like servo arms, screws etc.The thermostat and the weather station are screwed to the wall on the left. The tools are not mounted yet as I have to decide where I want them.


This shows the workbench and the storage underneath it. I plan to make some double-decker wooden bins to fit the storage slots. I've used vinyl floor tiles for the surface as it is tough, cyano and other glues don't adhere well and I can replace any individual tile that gets damaged should the need arise.


Another view of the workbench. I have a set of storage drawers to add underneath the fixed bench at the end. The high shelves that cover three on the walls are perfect to store balsa and ply flat so to prevent warping.

There are three fluorescent tubes running the entire length of the ceiling and I'll add more once I decide where they are most needed.

I'm really looking forward to finishing it and resuming some of my builds!

Richard

Oh, forgot to say that I plan to use a sheet of Sundeala when necessary to allow me to pin the model down. Just visible over the windows is a set of rotating storage racks with over 100 bottles for small screws and other fittings - you can see them in the first two photos..

Richard

I'm not jealous..Oh no way sirreeeeeeee... I don't suppose anyone else will be either...

I am glad the most important bit is done. Somewhere for my pilot to be made 
Looking great mate. What a nice place to work 

Si

I am glad the most important bit is done. Somewhere for my pilot to be made 
Looking great mate. What a nice place to work 

Si

Yes, I'm looking forward to building again - I've been working on the dining room table (with all the associated problems) for far too long now!

Your pilot is coming along quite nicely and Wendy will resume work on him soon now that the end of year festivities are over. The head is largely ready but still requires some fine detailing before we can make a mould for the production ones.

Richard

Nice looking pilot!  I need something for my Magnatilla but he looks as if he will be both too big and too costly! (Because of the obvious quality)

I'm not jealous..Oh no way sirreeeeeeee... I don't suppose anyone else will be either...

No, me neither; envy would be such and understatement!

What's your floor covered in - wood planking or is it a laminate?

I have a nice size work shop above a stand-alone double garage, but need to make it less cluttered. I find the storage of operational planes a bit of a pain plus the mess of oil drips etc.

It is actually a cheap vinyl. The idea is it will protect the pine floor boards underneath.

Richard