Topic: Wot 4 Classic build

Hi Brookes

It seems OS supply a glowplug with new four strokes, but not two strokes. I wasn't aware of that as I gave up on two strokes years ago.........

Hi Brian

Yeah, I wondered that when I re-read your post and noted that they were all four strokes. I wonder why not two strokes?

Ian

Well after 10 days of working away, man flu and Xmas festivities, I managed to get some time on the Wot.

After stripping everything I needed off the airframe, I treated any areas that may have caused me issues with the film sticking with Balsaloc....marvellous stuff. If you've never used it, it makes heat shrink film/fabric stick like s**t to a blanket to harder materials like ply. Try it!!

Covering is not my favourite part of any build.....its not that I don't enjoy it, but I have to be in the mood. Today, the mood took me so it was out with the iron and heat gun...

The colour scheme I have chosen is yellow fuselage, blue wings and tailplane with yellow tips. I started with the wing tips.



I find a bit of time spent early on adding strips to tailplane/fin to fuselage joints and around the tips pays dividends later on.



This was followed by covering the fuselage bottom and one side.



Total time today, around 5 hours!!

Back soon...

Exactly how I do it Brookes, tackle all the fiddly bits and corners first. Generally makes things much easier overall. 

First job today was to carry on and finish the fuselage......



Next, I moved onto the control surfaces. The model came with mylar hinges which I have no problem using but they do need to be pinned. Here's the sequence shown on the rudder, but all the rest are done the same way.....first job is to iron a thin strip of covering onto the hinge line...



Next the covering is slit at the hinge points and the hinges inserted. Then they are drilled to accept the pinning material, (I use cocktail sticks), and the pins inserted and sealed with a drop of cyano...



Finally, when dry, the pins are sanded flush. Next job is to complete the covering of the surfaces..

More soon...

Exactly how I do it Brookes, tackle all the fiddly bits and corners first. Generally makes things much easier overall. 

You said it before I had chance .Most people put the big bits on then bodge up the fiddly bits or leave them un-covered

Alan

I'm really glad to see someone just getting on with it, my acrowot has been waiting for me to make up my mind for nearly x years  .

I used plastic cocktail sticks for pinning hinges for a while. Quite good to use and you didn't need to sand off the excess if you trimmed them to the ideal length first. I used to melt the ends with my heat iron. You could slice through one end and push them out to remove the control surface too, if you ever needed to do repairs etc down the line.......

Can't seem to get hold of plastic cocktail sticks/toothpicks in my part of the world anymore.

To finish the how to on the hinging, the fin TE is cover by a thin strip of film and the (now covered) rudder is positioned, the hinges drilled and pegged as before.



I then cracked on over the last few days and finished the covering.....

 

Next job was to paint the inside of the cowl with unthinned Solarlac....



More soon.....

Fair bit of progress over the last few days with pretty much everything bolted back in. The only job left to do is to program my transmitter and install the receiver and I need some advice please. This is what Santa brought me for Xmas......



The transmitter is not that different to my old X3810; just a few more bells and whistles, the advice I need is over this:



The traditional method of installing a 35Mhz receiver was to plug everything in and wrap it in foam. Obviously this is completed different so I plan to make up a tray to attach it to but what's the best place for the satellite antenna (if that's the correct term) and should it be mounted vertically if the receiver is horizontal?. The instructions are a bit vague.....any suggestions?

Mount the sattelite receiver so that the wires are in opposing direction to the main receiver. This should provide the best signal reception.

Mount the sattelite receiver so that the wires are in opposing direction to the main receiver. This should provide the best signal reception.

So if I just stick it to the fuselage wall with servo tape, that will be OK?

So if I just stick it to the fuselage wall with servo tape, that will be OK?

Only use small squares of tape to allow air to flow, keep it cool!

Only use small squares of tape to allow air to flow, keep it cool!

Really...... ........OK, will do. Does the same apply to the main receiver?

Really...... ........OK, will do. Does the same apply to the main receiver?

Yes, I gather that 2.4 Rxs get warm, and you should never wrap in foam or cover the back with tape. Its advice given to me, I'm no expert!

So if I just stick it to the fuselage wall with servo tape, that will be OK?

I personally would not use servo tape, self adhesive velcro is much better as you can then remove the receiver or satelite without doing damage trying to unstick servo tape.

What on earth is a satellite receiver?

I've not seen or used one of those before.......

Ok, after binding the receiver to the transmitter and with various bits of advice ringing in my ears, I made up a cradle for the receiver which is sat on thin foam.....



....and popped it into place.....



...and found a place for the satellite bit as well...



Next I programmed the transmitter as required and now just need to do the final set up for throws, exponentials etc...

After that, I need to acquire some wing seat tape, test run the motor, fit the cowl and that should be about it

Back soon.

What on earth is a satellite receiver?

I've not seen or used one of those before.......

JR rubbish- they cant cram it all into a Futaba sized box......

Covering to tail surfaces the way you did ,installed first,seemed to me very good.Covering that way did a neat job.But putting a film strip at hinges first then the remaining area,wont that leave a edge for the air to lift or have i got jist wrong?

Covering to tail surfaces the way you did ,installed first,seemed to me very good.Covering that way did a neat job.But putting a film strip at hinges first then the remaining area,wont that leave a edge for the air to lift or have i got jist wrong?

Thats true, but a tiny spot of Prymol rubbed on the bit where it overlaps and it will never come undone.

Covering to tail surfaces the way you did ,installed first,seemed to me very good.Covering that way did a neat job.But putting a film strip at hinges first then the remaining area,wont that leave a edge for the air to lift or have i got jist wrong?

The method of covering overlaps the edge facing into the slipstream so it wont lift.

The method of covering overlaps the edge facing into the slipstream so it wont lift.

Yes it will, without priming. The main cover ends just before the hinge line. However, Prymol will make sure it sticks.

Yes it will, without priming. The main cover ends just before the hinge line. However, Prymol will make sure it sticks.

Actually, the covering does overlap the hinge line thus sealing the peice that was put on for the hinging. I do however still run a line of Balsaloc (same as Prymol) along the seam as belt and braces.

Actually, the covering does overlap the hinge line thus sealing the peice that was put on for the hinging. I do however still run a line of Balsaloc (same as Prymol) along the seam as belt and braces.

Balsaloc is not the same as Prymol, Prymol is an etching primer which gives the adhesive on film a great grip, Balsaloc is a PVA based adhesive to prime balsa or ply surfaces. I gather Prymol is hard to get these days, I have been using the same tin for ten years now, it goes a very long way.

Balsaloc is not the same as Prymol, Prymol is an etching primer which gives the adhesive on film a great grip, Balsaloc is a PVA based adhesive to prime balsa or ply surfaces. I gather Prymol is hard to get these days, I have been using the same tin for ten years now, it goes a very long way.

I stand corrected....sounds useful stuff. When you say hard to get, I've just done a quick Google search and it seems there are a few people stock it. I may have to invest!!

I stand corrected....sounds useful stuff. When you say hard to get, I've just done a quick Google search and it seems there are a few people stock it. I may have to invest!!

Its brilliant stuff. Just a wipe over the area to be seamed, let it dry and once ironed, it wont pull off. Problem is, they wont sell much, as it lasts years!

Just been on the Solarfilm website and they list it as one of thier products, so in theory anyone who stocks thier products should be able to get it.

I was looking as well for a product I had years ago that they did which you wiped on the reverse side of the film and it temporarily melted the adhesive allowing you to position bits of film for decorative trimming purposes...brilliant stuff.

It appears that they no longer do it, maybe it disappeared with the advent of Solartrim.....  

Yes it will, without priming. The main cover ends just before the hinge line. However, Prymol will make sure it sticks.

I have covered with film (mainly Profilm) for well over 10 years and have never used Prymol on overlaps, it just in not necessary. I do use Prymol on ply and around the nose of a model to prevent oil getting into the wood.

I have covered with film (mainly Profilm) for well over 10 years and have never used Prymol on overlaps, it just in not necessary. I do use Prymol on ply and around the nose of a model to prevent oil getting into the wood.

THATS NOT PRYMOL!!! Prymol is a colourless liquid for use on Solarfilm, Solarspan, metals and some other plastics as an etch primer. After drying it improves the adhesion of many iron-ons, adhesives and paints to the treated surface. Applied to Solarfilm before applying an overlapping piece of Solarfilm, the overlap seam will be stronger, it will resist the entry of fuel and its edges will not lift even after long use.
Apply Prymol with a small pad of cloth or tissue. Use enough to moisten the surface, then allow to dry for a few minutes.
When spraying paint, mask off as normal, spray a thin coat of Prymol, allow to dry and spray the paint as normal

I think he means Clearcoat Bob, which of course is yet another Solarfilm product. I use it myself in the same way FB describes.......

I'm pretty sure that prymol won't be of any use on profilm as the material is a different spec.
Back in the 70s & early 80s solarfilm used to recommend applying the stuff where overlaps occurred on their product (before solartex and solarspan days).I used it on the wings of my Miri 100 and the last time I was in the loft there were no turnups on the seams and that plane was built in either 79 or 80.
Hope that helps - iirc it was originally intended to prepare the surface of solarfilm for either solartrim or solarlac. I've bought three tins over the years as, as was stated, it goes a long way. BUT STINKS.

I think he means Clearcoat Bob, which of course is yet another Solarfilm product. I use it myself in the same way FB describes.......

Yes, of course it is. Fuel proofs the wood and prepares it for Solarfilm. Ideal on firewalls.
Drone- I would be surprised if it did not work, it is an etching fluid after all, but Profilm is good enough as it is.

Just to clarify I meant paint, got a bit mixed up there.
I should have remembered profilm goes on and stays on like s*** to a blanket (though not on artfs)

Well, I put the final touches to the Wot tonight as far as I can go.

The main job was finishing programming the radio which was a joy to do and completed in about 10 minutes; servos reversed, dual rates set, throws set, exponential dialled in.....its just too easy these days......

I couldn't help remembering back to my first ever radio control outfit back in the late 70's.......a 4 channel Horizon system.....its was the size of a brief case, had 2 sticks, 4 trims, 1 power meter, 1 on/off switch and an aerial.....and I thought I'd died and gone to heaven when I got it.... 

Anyway, reminiscing over, the next job is to test run the motor at the weekend, fit the cowl and its ready for a test flight. I'll leave adding any stickers or decorations until after that.....

Back soon on the Extra......

Well done, mate. only just over a month from start to finish with xmas in the middle, nice one! 

You had a set of Horizon radio Brookes?  I'm very sorry to hear that.     At least those bright yellow servos were always a doddle to find in long grass.......

Almost as good as a friend of mine Drone. He's built a D B Models Jodel, and an Apache Models Monocoupe (definately not a simple build!) since August last year......  both built, covered and radio/engines installed. Oh, and he also spray painted his recently completed 1/4 scale Flybaby Monoplane during that time too.

Amazing what you can do when you have all the time you need......

Philosophically speaking, we all have all the time we need, it's just a matter of prioritising. I find that I get so far then hit a snag that needs a significant period of cogitation during which time bits get knocked off it and then it sinks behind all the stuff my kids and wife throw in the garage and then they accuse me of hogging the space which i can't even gain access too 
I have 4 pieces of vynil trim to complete my extra wot, two pieces of ply to cut and fit to repair my 30 this year wot 4 mk2 and a little time to cover my new acrowot and in between this I throwing together a couple of pylon racers that are artf....
But right now I have to complete the tax return for our business, this is the last year I'm doing it. I have gone to an accounting firm to get them to do it for 2011/12 as I feel I am missing some of the legal tax avoidance areas. As we are thinking about selling up it's important that the last three years we have all the concessions available.
Doesn't leave much time for modelling though I feel it should.

Well done, mate. only just over a month from start to finish with xmas in the middle, nice one! 

Actually, I consider myself to be quite a slow builder.....I do crack on when I'm in the workshop but getting off the settee to make it there is sometimes difficult. I find if I push too hard I become sloppy and start making daft mistakes....time to put it on hold for a few days...

Well what happened then? How did it go with the os55? I am about to start the same build with the same engine but plan to glass the wings/ fus.
Wonderfully useful thread and I will include many of your recommendations , unless it flew like a dog!