[sticky]

I'm covering a 1/4 Fokker D7 with natural solartex to give me a blank canvas for a paint scheme.  I intend to paint with a water based paint if I use my airbrush or car aerosols then finish with a satin or matt fuel proofer (petrol).  Since solartex is flexible I need a paint and proofer that won't crack or peel.  What experiences have you that would be helpful.  Apparantly solartex wont accept cellulose but there are so many aerosols out there now I don't know which are cellulose and which aren't.  I have also been advised that clearcoat as used on cars is as good a fuel proofer and cheaper than the dedicated model options.
Any advice appreciated.
Cheers Pete

[Cornish Pixie]

I have painted loads of models in the past with cellulose that have been tex covered. So long as you don,t build it up to thick its fine, if you have it to thick it will crack.
I have used all sorts of car aerosols again with out issue. Most of them are acrylic now.

On my latest D7 I used an oil based paint for the white and matt emulsions for the colours.
If I could do it again I would use all matt emulsions . Go to a DIY store and get them to mix any colour you fancy. One of our other Dawn Patrol members paints exclusively  in this and he has some of the best models on the flight line. Rolling and brushing gives a great finish or you can spray it.
Fuel proofing wise I have tried lots of different things but for petrol powered models I have used Ronseal Diamond hard varnish. Its water based , available in Gloss , Matt and Satin which is what I used on the D.VII. Thin a touch with water to spray or roll and brush from the tin.
Thats my views on painting WW1 aircraft  , there are loads of other , its what works best for you.

Si

[kurrmet]

I have painted loads of models in the past with cellulose that have been tex covered. So long as you don,t build it up to thick its fine, if you have it to thick it will crack.
I have used all sorts of car aerosols again with out issue. Most of them are acrylic now.

On my latest D7 I used an oil based paint for the white and matt emulsions for the colours.
If I could do it again I would use all matt emulsions . Go to a DIY store and get them to mix any colour you fancy. One of our other Dawn Patrol members paints exclusively  in this and he has some of the best models on the flight line. Rolling and brushing gives a great finish or you can spray it.
Fuel proofing wise I have tried lots of different things but for petrol powered models I have used Ronseal Diamond hard varnish. Its water based , available in Gloss , Matt and Satin which is what I used on the D.VII. Thin a touch with water to spray or roll and brush from the tin.
Thats my views on painting WW1 aircraft  , there are loads of other , its what works best for you.

Si

Top bit of info Si, I am painting my Fokker and was going to use flair paints as I had Never thought of using paint from a DIY store.

So it's of to B&Q and not the local model shop  that should save a few pound 

[Skyleader]

Top bit of info Si, I am painting my Fokker and was going to use flair paints as I had Never thought of using paint from a DIY store.

So it's of to B&Q and not the local model shop  that should save a few pound 

I painted the lozenge colour scheme of my Flair Fokker D7 with matt emulsion, and the red and blue box top scheme with Flair spectrum paint.
The trick on solartex is to put on two thin coats of dope first and seal the surface; doesn't go baggy in the sun either. If we ever get any.

[sticky]

Thanks for the advice.  My problem with DIY emulsion is that I am in Cyprus and don't have as much choice in that dept as the UK.  I'm back in the UK for a few days at the end of May and was going to pick up the cans I need then, although spray cans are in abundance here and cheap.  Doping sounds a good idea if it stops sagging in the sun although solartex is already sealed.

I was also thinking of Warbirds paints from Phil once I have decided on a scheme...still thinking white as this would help in the bright sunshine.  Dark colours could see it melt here

[Cornish Pixie]

I was also thinking of Warbirds paints from Phil

These are a water based paint. They spray well and brush well though some of the colours are rather strange. The British WW1 ones are a good example of this.
You need to fuel proof if using petrol again the Ronseal Diamond hard works fine .

Si

[BrianB]

You can also get a really good finish by spraying a coat of thinned Clearcoat onto Solartex prior to painting with Solarlac colours. I haven't tried using other final finishes other than Solarlac, so I'm not sure if other types of paint would be ok. Anyone tried any others?

Skyleader, I've also used the dope trick on Tex quite a few times, but I've found it isn't strictly necessary if you avoid using your Tex iron at over 150 degrees. Too much heat can destroy some of the qualites of Solartex, resulting in it bubbling in the sun. But you already knew that.

[albert0147]

Hello,
I have heard that house paints , water based, are petrol (gas) proof but not nitro proof.  I need to put this to the test on the bench.   Maybe we all should take a second and test things now and then especially when putting paints on our hard work.
Take care,
Albert

[kurrmet]

Hello,
I have heard that house paints , water based, are petrol (gas) proof but not nitro proof.  I need to put this to the test on the bench.   Maybe we all should take a second and test things now and then especially when putting paints on our hard work.
Take care,
Albert

Hi Albert

I understand your concerns which I why as time is against me and flair are only a few miles away I am going down the proven route of spectrum paint and fuel proofer to enable me to meet the dead line of the first show 

[alanh]

I second the comments re solarlac and clearcoat both work brilliantly with solatex and are glow and petrol proof (Hammerite smooth is very similar / identical to solarlac) .The downside is the curing properties of all of these .Re-coat within 2 hours or so or after several days .You get a reaction if you try a re-coat within the time

Alan