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Mick Reeves Hunter kit build

Started by Turbine Tinkerer, December 06, 2013, 22:47:51 pm

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Turbine Tinkerer

October 23, 2015, 15:48:10 pm #120 Last Edit: October 23, 2015, 18:59:52 pm by Turbine Tinkerer
Thanks for the input.

I've hinged the front nose door with a homemade hinge from fiberglass board and piano wire. It works well and allows the door to open sufficiently for the wheel/leg to go in and out although there is a gap at the front of around 2 - 3 mm when it's shut. Unfortunately there's not a lot that I can do about it due to the curvature of the fuselage. I've also attached a horn from fiberglass board that will open and close the door via a servo.

Turbine Tinkerer

I've cut these from 3mm birch ply to glue to the former in the front of the fuselage behind where I cut the nose off to extend forward into the nose and fix the batteries and ballast.

Turbine Tinkerer

Spent some time today messing with the sequencer and the servo that operates the front nose door. Quite happy with the results I just hope the servo is powerful enough to open the door against the air pressure when it's flying.

A quick video of it here -

Turbine Tinkerer

This feels like a minor milestone! Got the nose doors/gear/steering all working reliably.

See here -


And here -

Turbine Tinkerer

I have glued the former in the fuselage where the main gear doors are and mounted the servos that will operate them. The fuel tank sits inside this. I've put some 3mm birch ply in the fuselage to mount the fuel tank on I'll put a couple of velcro straps around it to hold it in place. I have also made the canopy frame up from the 3mm laser cut ply parts supplied in the kit. A little bit fiddly but works well. The canopy is attached to the frame with tiny screws.

Turbine Tinkerer

Turbine decided on and bought (spark 120) the mounts are now in (made new ones as the supplied ones were a little narrow for my turbine)

dave.windymiller


Turbine Tinkerer

Thanks for the kind words Dave.

The intakes are quite short and in no way form a complete duct into the turbine that you could put a bypass onto. They are made from a clear plastic supplied in the kit to a template on the plan. There are 2 x sharp 90° bends that form the inside part and a smooth curve on the outer part of the duct. The 90° bends formed nicely with a score from the knife and the smooth curve went well with a little heat. Theres a overlap on the inner edge to glue them into a complete loop.

Turbine Tinkerer

I'm not sure how the rear support of the thrust tube should be mounted? There's 4 holes in it but not sure how it should work so I've made a former up from 3mm birch ply with some up stands to screw the ring to through the 4 holes already in it. I'll glue the ply into the rear of the fuselage with Epoxy.

Turbine Tinkerer

The stock turbine mounts are quite high up in the fuselage. I don't know if this is to suit JetCat's with offset mounts? Anyhow I've made some blocks up and mounted the turbine below the rails. The turbine is around 8mm above centre now which gives a much more neutral thrust line.

Turbine Tinkerer

November 14, 2015, 16:11:52 pm #130 Last Edit: November 14, 2015, 16:15:04 pm by Turbine Tinkerer
Another stumbling block on the Hunter has been the main gear doors. After a long time thinking about it I've come up with this. It's fairly simple really just a 1.5mm ply plate with rebates for the hinges and screwed under the wing skin. It is screwed so it can be removed so I can get the retracts in and out. A short pushrod from the leg to the door opens and closes it. The lower part of the door will be attached to the leg. It's not scale as there should be 3 separate parts. It all looks simple but working it took a little while to get all the angles working. The door itself is proskin doubled up with 2.5mm balsa.

Turbine Tinkerer

Where have the photos gone?

Been working on the main gear doors and finally got them working to this stage.



Pup Cam

Still distracted by a 1953 AJS 16MS and now a 1939 BSA 250 too!

paulinfrance

The retract gear doors look like they are 'sorted' all you need now is to get the doors synchronised and the retract speed right, for the legs,,  :co
Mode 2 THE only way to fly

Turbine Tinkerer

A little more work on the Hunter this time the turbine hatch. I can't claim it as my idea unfortunately seen it a few times now and works very well with just a small hole showing on the outside.




paulinfrance

That's a new idea for a hatch, but isn't it a bit complicated and heavy ?, I use the simple dowel on one end and a glider canopy catch on the other,,
Mode 2 THE only way to fly

Turbine Tinkerer

It's obviously heavier than than your way and a little more time consuming than your method but works really well with the locking pins retracting at both ends and all there is on the outside is a 3mm hole.

HarryC

Just be absolutely sure that the mechanism can never break, come loose, get burned etc., because if it fails then the only way to get the hatch off will be with a saw!

itsme

Quote from: HarryC on January 29, 2016, 12:04:49 pm
Just be absolutely sure that the mechanism can never break, come loose, get burned etc., because if it fails then the only way to get the hatch off will be with a saw!

Yes. When I saw the quicklinks with no lock nuts or silicon keepers on them that was my thought...think I would heat shrink them on!

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Turbine Tinkerer

Quote from: itsme on January 29, 2016, 12:10:58 pm
Yes. When I saw the quicklinks with no lock nuts or silicon keepers on them that was my thought...think I would heat shrink them on!

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I'll obviously be putting something on the quick links before its finished. Either locknuts or I'll silver solder them on to the studding and a small piece of heat shrink or tube to stop them opening up. I was just trying to show the principle.

If any hatch catch fails when it's closed on the airframe your probably going to be in a world of pain however I would trust something I've made myself over a mass produced catch from a Chinese factory that has its quality purely driven by cost and greed.

itsme

Agreed!

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paulinfrance

I was just imagining you panicking when the motor catches fire,  :embarassed: with you foundling about on the ground looking for the key to open the hatch   :-\and then opening it,  with the flames all around and then,  where the hell did I put the fire extinguisher ,,  :banghead:

No It hasn't happened to me "yet" ,,,, :''
Mode 2 THE only way to fly

THE BLACKBIRD

I have the same system my hunter, the hatch is off until the engine is running, the fire extinguisher is next to me and the key go's in my pocket
The system works great
The man that never made a mistake
Never made anything

paulinfrance

Ok, I was only having a dig on a complicated and heavy system, I keep mine simple and light, although they are a bit ugly,,
Is you Blackbird on your Avatar still flying ?.
Mode 2 THE only way to fly

Turbine Tinkerer

January 30, 2016, 17:57:02 pm #144 Last Edit: January 30, 2016, 17:58:16 pm by Turbine Tinkerer
Anyway while the great turbine hatch catch debate continues I've been doing a little to the canopy. By no means scale but gives you the idea. Ejector seat from Jeff at Zedjet and a HM forces pilot.

Turbine Tinkerer

I've been adding a bit more detail this time the cannons. There are outlines of them moulded into the fuselage. I have cut these out with the dremel and hysol'ed some carbon tube in. Not exact scale again but gives you the idea. It should look ok when it's all painted and weathered.

Turbine Tinkerer

Some more scale additions to the airframe this time the Sabrinas. These are vac formings that are supplied with a balsa 'frame' that goes on the inside to give a larger glueing area. After messing with these for a while I decided to fill the vac formings with expanding foam instead of using the balsa frames. When the foam was hard I put a piece of sandpaper onto the fuselage where they attach and sanded the mating face to shape. When I got a good fit I glued them in place with epoxy. I think the expanding foam has worked well without adding to much weight.

Pup Cam

Quote from: Turbine Tinkerer on March 01, 2016, 21:39:17 pm
I think the expanding foam has worked well without adding to much weight.


And much more durable than the mouldings by themselves I should imagine :af
Still distracted by a 1953 AJS 16MS and now a 1939 BSA 250 too!

paulinfrance

Sorry for my ignorance but what are "Sabrinas." :embarassed:
Mode 2 THE only way to fly

STORM


British Victory

there's only one f in RCMF,
               John

itsme

Quote from: paulinfrance on March 02, 2016, 08:16:41 am
Sorry for my ignorance but what are "Sabrinas." :embarassed:

She was a rather well endowed film star of the fifties. [emoji3]

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PDR

March 02, 2016, 10:27:14 am #152 Last Edit: March 02, 2016, 10:29:59 am by PDR
When the Hunter F1 and F2 went into early service they found a problem with the expelled cartridge links battering the rear fuselage underside. Hawker address this problem by adding link collectors to the Hunter F4, but they had to go outside the fuselage and needed two large aerodynamic blister fairings.

The RAF crews, as lads do, christened these "Sabrinas" - a reference to Norma Anne Sykes who was at the time what we would now call a "pron star" and [very] minor actress who used the professional name Sabrina.

The reason why the pair of large bulges brough Sabrina to mind is pretty obvious when you see her picture:



PDR
There are no shortcuts on the long, hard road to success. But if your dad's rich there could a limo service...

itsme

Starting to worry about you Pete. The last few posts you have put up are all about ladies of dubious morals.

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PDR

A guy's allowed to dream, ain't he?

PDR
There are no shortcuts on the long, hard road to success. But if your dad's rich there could a limo service...

itsme

I wonder what she looks like now.....

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mickB


itsme

Still alive at 79. Yep, you are probably right.

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Turbine Tinkerer

The leading edges of the wings, horizontal stabs, ailerons and elevators have all been wrapped in glass cloth and Epoxy to stop the wing skins pulling apart. I've gone about a inch back with it and produced a sharp line where it ends to represent a pannel line.

I didn't feel confident in painting it so its gone away to someone far more experienced than me!  I've gone for a scheme from opperation musketeer.

Turbine Tinkerer

While the main airframe is away being painted I've been working on the drop tanks. These are vac formed ends (in 2 halfs) and a rolled pro film tube in the middle. The vac formed ends are not easy to put together so for the fronts I tried the expanding foam again. Just taped them together and then filled them with foam. When it had gone of removed the tape and they held together well and are quite firm and workable. I weighed the components before and after the expanding foam as I was concerned how much it would weigh. Looks like it's only added around 30 grams per tank. The ends then go on the tubes. Just a little filling around the seams and should be good to paint.