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August 20, 2018, 19:51:54 PM

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1
I'm a complete tyro at soldering, bought a 100W one and subsequently a 50W one, now I never use the 100W one, I can now solder deans, XT60s, XT90s and the ec ones as supplied by kyosho and all I do is ensure the bit is clean and there is a good dose of molten solder on it  which brings the work up to temp pdq, pre-tin the cable ends first as well. I do use the largest bit in the maplins solder station.
I also connect up the connectors with the appropriate other half(vital with deans) as this prevents the plastic insulation from overheating and melting.
2
UK Regional / Re: The South East Flyers Thread Part 3
« Last post by EricF on Today at 13:55:14 »
I was trying to keep quiet about buying another model!!

Alan T tells me that to reduce his fleet, if he has a crash he doesn't bother to repair the model, he just bins in - what a cracking strategy!
3
One more thing about thermal mass and heat transfer....it is important that the bit, no matter how big, makes good thermal/physical contact with the actual 'hot' part of the iron....

Antex soldering irons come in two flavours  with regard to bit design, those with and without a split sleeve....Its a good idea to smear the actual element part with something like 'Coppaslip' then slide the bit over....the addition has twofold benefits....stops the bit from seizing onto the element and aids heat transfer being copper based...
4
Using a 'big' bit is a good idea as it has a greater surface area for heat transfer. But bear in mind it will take time to reach the melting point of solder when heated by a modest element...also consider heat loss to the surrounding air.....a larger wattage iron is better than a 25 watt one.....both will attain the same temperature over time....but the bigger one will get there quicker.

Holding the connector in some form of 'grip' like a wooden block with hole, is what I use....minimises heat loss.

I'll just add to Chippie's comment about the larger bit.

Yes, contact area is important, but so is thermal mass - a big chunk of copper will "store"more heat than a small one. If the bit thermal mass is greater than the soldered item, it will transfer heat and maintain soldering temperature longer. Unless you are soldering lots of items very quickly one after the other, the 50watt element will "top up" the heat lost in the times between making each joint. In my work example, the thermal mass of the connector was similar to the EC5 and I never had to wait for the iron to reheat despite having an assembly jig that allowed four joints to be made with no significant time gap (perhaps 2 seconds) between each joint.
5
Slope / Re: SIRIUS 3.05m REICHARD
« Last post by paulinfrance on Today at 12:17:54 »
I have just received it and wow does it look good, a quick look at what's in the box and yes B***y German instructions !. :banghead:
6
UK Regional / Re: The South East Flyers Thread Part 3
« Last post by Nicholls on Today at 11:29:12 »
Oops Eric you forgot to mention the model and other bits you bought!
7
Slope / Re: SIRIUS 3.05m REICHARD
« Last post by paulinfrance on Today at 10:39:28 »
Yes thanks Eric, my Discus was cracked everywhere ! the fuselage was made from chickens eggs,
but it has been flying on and off for 10 years,,  :study:
 I 'might' reinforce the Sirius fuselage in the tail. ^-^ as lead in the nose and wing loading isn't a big deal on the slope.
 I will see when it arrives,
8
UK Regional / Re: The South East Flyers Thread Part 3
« Last post by EricF on Today at 10:38:39 »
Had a good session on Saturday morning with Charlie and a couple of guys from Surrey with the conditions being spot on.
Yesterday attended the multilaunch glider competition at the Invicta Club field chatting, helping out with timekeeping and slot running and on the way home called in to Thurnham where a couple of guys from the Barton's Point Club were just finishing their session with Phase 6 and a glider trainer.
9
Slope / Re: SIRIUS 3.05m REICHARD
« Last post by EricF on Today at 10:30:05 »
Sirius looks very nice Paul.

Just be careful to settle her down gently as that slim rear end needs looking after. If you have a CMPro Discus you may already have cracks appearing at the bottom of the fin where it joins the cuz. Mine has and so has every other CMPro Discus I have seen.

Yes, crocodile/butterfly is the way to go. In England we call it crow/butterfly braking however I do like the French term, it makes sense likening the action to that of a crocs jaws opening.

And yes make sure you turn off the braking just before landing, and we do that on the grassy slopes in Kent, otherwise servo damage may result.

Best of luck with your new acquisition.

Eric (in England).
10
Using a 'big' bit is a good idea as it has a greater surface area for heat transfer. But bear in mind it will take time to reach the melting point of solder when heated by a modest element...also consider heat loss to the surrounding air.....a larger wattage iron is better than a 25 watt one.....both will attain the same temperature over time....but the bigger one will get there quicker.

Holding the connector in some form of 'grip' like a wooden block with hole, is what I use....minimises heat loss.
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