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September 23, 2017, 15:48:07 PM

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1
RC Flight Chatter / Re: Oleo suspension spring
« Last post by sticky on Today at 13:07:47 »
Did you get my email re glassing?
2
Electric Flight Technical / Re: electrifying a slope soarer.
« Last post by itsme on Today at 09:07:44 »
Thanks guys. The whole idea is to climb to height and then chop the throttle, so I suppose thats sensible. Right, now to start glueing...almost forgot how to build! Going to add a bit of extra strength to the wing spar here as this is going to be a hefty and fast bird. Stans old soarers were all foam wings and glass reinforcement, this is built up and sheeted.
3
Electric Flight Technical / Re: electrifying a slope soarer.
« Last post by Michael_Rolls on Today at 05:49:24 »
As Pat says - be careful about mixing down with throttle. I did this with a glider and, using it for the first time after quite I while, forgot that I needed to hold in a bit of 'up' on launching - damn near took my toes off!
Mike
4
Electric Flight Technical / Re: electrifying a slope soarer.
« Last post by Patmac on Yesterday at 23:46:59 »
In an aerobatic model like this I'd use zero downthrust, then it's the same inverted.
I'd also not necessarily mix down with throttle, it's easy enough to hold it manualy. However if you do be careful when opening from low/closed throttle to full when near the ground because the elevator might react faster than the power. I once dived the model from high in a glide did a low fast pass & slammed in full throttle ... frantic yank on the stick just managed to save the prop touching the ground.
OTOH you could insert a delay in the mix - say 1 sec between opening throttle to down being activated. Also handy to insert a delay at the other end - say 1.5 secs between closing & elevator returning to neutral - makes transition between steep/vertical climb & level easier.
5
Electric Flight Technical / Re: electrifying a slope soarer.
« Last post by itsme on Yesterday at 20:53:44 »
Well, now back from a rather chilly and windy week at Binham so getting my head around the model. In the picture attached, I am altering the woodwork to suit the motor. The vertical line through the 'AA battery pack' is the new bulkhead to take the cruciform motor mount. The horizontal pencil line above it is the tail datum, the one above that the wing datum. (LE point to TE point). There is around one degree of downthrust naturally, obviously I will need more, but just how much? Its not imperative to be perfect as I can always mix a bit of down elevator with throttle, but I'd like it to be pretty near. Any ideas? I thought possibly 3-5 degrees? I dont want to be altering it after its all finished, as the spinner will be blended to the fuselage.
6
I'm in idle mode (what's new?). The Perth site is a bit awful in that the field geography means that the only reasonably level area is against the southern boundary - which is an 8 foot high melange of shrubs, hedgerow and small trees. So far so good as it runs E-W as does the strip - BUT we seem to get southerly winds more often than not, resulting in a vicious rotor over the strip, calling for a good deal of punch to get safely away.
So, whilst I m building an answer to the problem, at the rate I build I want a short term substitute. I want a powered glider which is on the high power/weight side of the equation with the following characteristics:
Span - around 48"
power brushless running off 3S either 2000-2500 or 3000-3700 packs. (I have lots of such packs)
everything other than RX pre-installed, i.e., PNP
V or T til preferred but not essential
Suggestions please?
Mike

7
Electric / Re: 6 Servo Glider and 6 Channel Tx
« Last post by EricF on Yesterday at 17:33:38 »
My solution when I had your problem was to put the model together in the back garden and spend a sunny afternoon sitting in the sun trying out various settings until I had it cracked - and you need a beer alongside as well!  It worked for me!  ;D ;D ;D

Regarding the number of channels, I originally had 8 + 1 channels on my Robbe Futaba FC18 but when I went for large scale gliders, I found that I needed more, so I bought a Futaba 14SG and now I've used up all of those on my latest model, an ASH 25Mi. I could really have done with the 18 channel jobbie, but another 400+ for 4 extra channels didn't compute for me so I had to be creative with combining channels.

I have ailerons, speed flaps and brake flaps and I can switch those in progressively via a three position switch and can go from just outer aileron to full span movement - it looks quite good on a 23 feet wingspan model!

For landing I have put the airbrakes, crow setting and brake flaps on the throttle stick and that allows me on a high approach to hang everything out, put the nose down and it's rock steady on the way down terminating with a nice flare at the bottom.  :af

Have fun setting up your model, it'll be worth it!
8
Great Stuff Pete,
Thank you for your support.

I received word yesterday from mRJoLLy aka the 'Doncaster Dogfighter'
informing me that he will be attending this event, unfortunately mRs J.
is unable to attend this time.

Let's hope we get some away team aircraft,
for the Spitfires and Hurricanes to dog fight with.

I am starting to get a tinge (Steady) of excitement.  ???

Regards Phil G.
9
Electric / Re: 6 Servo Glider and 6 Channel Tx
« Last post by SeaWing on Yesterday at 16:13:22 »
Update:
With my 'fleabay find' a JR X-378 handset I have got 2 x flights on the Pike with flaps or crow braking as options for landing and all is well!

The handset has a full span aileron option to move the aileron and the flap together, however when I play about with this I can't get the flap to move in sync. with the aileron, altering the % mix value only results in the flap being too shy or too proud.
Any ideas?


Thanks
10
Cars & motorsport / Re: Insurance claims and caravans....
« Last post by meharibear on Yesterday at 12:04:35 »
One thing to remember if you end up scrapping a van in such circumstances is that lots of people build campervan conversions using second hand panel vans so there is a good market in interiors from damaged caravans for fitting these out.  In addition, some people use the basic caravan chassis to build box vans (for their models etc!) - Thus a "beyond economical repair caravan"  may be worth more than you think!
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